Guidebook #1: California Redwoods, 2 May – 22 June 1828

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Jedediah Smith Society
 April 2-5, 2023 Rendezvous
The People, Foods, and Landscapes of 1828

 April 2 Guidebook (1): California Redwoods
 May 2 - June 22, 1828

Travels Through the Lands of Hoopa, Yurok, and Tolowa
 by Jedediah Smith and Harrison Roger

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The 2023 Jedediah Smith Society Rendezvous

 From 1822 to 1830, Jedediah Smith led small fur trade brigades from Missouri to much of the Far West,
including two expeditions to California, the second penetrating Oregon. Dale Morgan, author of the epic
biography Jedediah Smith and the Opening of the West, says Jed’s travels were second in importance to only the
Lewis and Clark expedition. Jed was not only a trapper but also the leading Far West map maker of his time. His
observations of people, botany, foods, and geography are chronicled in his journals, excerpts of which appear in
the four guidebooks prepared for you by Bob Zybach, assisted by Joe Molter.

 The society’s four-day Rendezvous covers only a small part of Jed’s second western odyssey. It starts
near the confluence of the Trinity and Klamath Rivers in California where Jed made contact with the Hoopa
peoples and ends at Fort Vancouver near today’s Oregon-Washington border. You will observe many places
where Jed’s party camped with over three hundred horses and mules, read recovered journals, and study the latest
maps. You will come to understand just how slowly Jed’s men had to move over rough terrain through the
homelands of native tribes—some friendly, some hostile. Driving a large herd inland to find pasture and fresh
water, and navigating the rugged Oregon coast, were especially challenging.

 You will also visit the site near the confluence of the Smith and Umpqua Rivers where fourteen of Smith’s
men were surprised and killed by Kelawatsets while in camp, preparing to continue their journey to Fort
Vancouver. You may be surprised to learn that early accounts of the attack may not tell the whole story.

 The story of the Umpqua attack has been retold many times. Historians generally agree that it is one of
the three significant clashes between mountain men and natives in the 1820s. In July 2000 society members James
Auld and Wayne Knauf led a rendezvous to the Umpqua site that included a memorial ceremony at the campsite
near the confluence of the Smith and Umpqua Rivers where Jed’s men were buried.

 Our Rendezvous also documents the escape route of Jed and three survivors to Fort Vancouver and fort
superintendent John McLaughlin’s subsequent aid in helping Jed to recover some of the supplies, furs, horses,
and mules stolen from the camp. Guidebooks 2 and 3 include the journal of Hudson’s Bay Company brigade
leader Alexander Mcleod, who tells about the return to the Umpqua River area. Another Hudson’s Bay Company
brigade captain who helped was Michael Laframboise, husband of Emily Picard, Wayne Knauf’s great-great-
grandmother.

 The Jedediah Smith Society greatly appreciates the promotional assistance of the Oregon-California
Trails Association, and we are pleased that Jedediah Smith has been nominated to their national Hall of Fame.
James Auld wrote a very interesting article titled “Jedediah Smith’s Disaster at Defeat River,” published in the
2014 Rocky Mountain Fur Trade Journal, available from the Museum of the Mountain Man, Pinedale, Wyoming.
That museum will also be hosting the 2024 National Fur Trade Symposium, “The Eve of the Rendezvous,”
September 12-15, featuring the Jedediah Smith brigade that included James Clyman, Tom Fitzpatrick, William
Sublette and others, through South Pass to the Green River.

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Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous
 Guidebook #1 Table of Contents: May 2 - May 26, 1828

Campsite 1828 Page
Hogback Ridge May 2 .... ........................1
South Fork Prairie May 3 .... .........................1
Willow Creek May 6 .... ......................... 2
Medilding May 7 .... ......................... 2
Supply Creek May 8 .... ......................... 2
Big Creek May 9 .... ......................... 3
Pine Creek May 10 .... .........................3
Wiregrass Prairie May 11 .... .........................3
Big Prairie May 13 .... ......................... 4
Mettah Creek Ridge (1) May 14 .... ......................... 4
Bukers Prairie May 18 .... .........................6
Gans Prairie May 19 .... ......................... 6
Mettah Creek Ridge (2) May 23 .... ......................... 8
Indian Scalp River May 24 .... ......................... 9
Yurok May 25 .... ......................... 9
Blue Creek Mountain May 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

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Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous
 Guidebook #1 Table of Contents: May 26 - June 22, 1828

Campsite 1828 Page
Blue Creek Mountain May 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Blue Creek May 27 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Red Mountain May 28 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Potato Patch Ridge May 29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
West Fork Blue Creek May 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Turwar Creek June 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Klamath June 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Hunters Creek June 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Requa June 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
High Prairie Creek June 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Wilson Creek June 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Summit Spring June 11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Cappah Creek June 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Endert Beach June 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Cushing Creek June 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Elk Valley June 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Jordan Creek June 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Smith River June 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Myrtle Creek Ridge June 21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Rowdy Creek June 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
References 2023 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

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"The Tish-rawa Village, and the Klamath, Below the Entrance of the Salmon." Drawn by Seth Eastman
from original sketch by George Gibbs, October 1851. (Bushnell, Jr. 1938: cover).

Cover: Paul Calle 1987. "In the Land of the Giants." 52" x 38" oil painting.

Frontispiece: Jose Cisneros 1990. "Jedediah Smith," Commissioned by Jedediah Smith Society, Castor
Canadensis, University of the Pacific, Stockton, California: pp. 5-6.

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 Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous Guidebook #1
 Hupa, Yurok, and Tolowa Lands
 By Jedediah Smith and Harrison Rogers
 May 2 - June 22, 1828

 I wanted to be the first to view a country on which the eyes of a white man had
 never gazed and to follow the course of rivers that run through a new land.
 Jedediah S. Smith, March 1831

Robeseau half breed U Canada
Nipisang of Nipisang Ind & B America
Marion Umpquah Ind a slave
John a slave
Manuel native Mexican
Harrison G. Rogers a Virginian
Martin McCoy Kentuckian
Peter Ranney E Frenchman
Arthur Black Scotchman
John Gaither Kentucky
John Hanna Missouri
Abraham Laplant Indianna
Emmenuel Lazarus German
Robert Evans ould Ireland
Silas Goble Ohio
John Wilson Scotland
Daniel Ferguson Unknown
James Reed New York

Hogback Ridge (May 2, 1828)

SMITH: May 2nd North 2 Miles. The road most terrible down steep hills which were extremely
Rocky and Brushy. On the side of the mountain were some remarkably handsome hemlocks, the
largest I had ever seen. Beside Hemlock was Pine and some Oak. On the point of a ridge on
which I encamped was some good grass. 4 Deer were killed.

South Branch Prairie (May 3, 1828)

SMITH: May 3d 1 Mile North. I first made an attempt to move down towards the river but found
it impracticable. I therefore returned to camp and moved north 1 Mile over traveling like that to
which I had now become accustomed. I encamped a mile from the river on a ridge which
produced plenty of grass and Oak timber. Opposite my camp a large stream entered Smiths River

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from the East. It appeared even larger than the stream on which I had been traveling. One Mule
lost. After encamping the hunters went out and killed two deer.

SMITH: May 4 I was obliged to lay by in consequence of the lameness of my horses. I had my
Beaver skins dried and sent men back on the trail to look for horses. The hunters killed 8 Deer
and the Meat was cut and dried.

SMITH: 5th May At the same camp, some of my horses being unable to travel. I had my horses
brought up and counted and found that there was ten or twelve not to be accounted for. I
therefore took one man and went back on the trail intending to go [] to the 4th encampment
directing Mr. Rodgers that in case [] I did not return to start early on the following morning. I
found two horses and got two miles on my way back.

Willow Creek (May 6, 1828)

SMITH: May 6th When I got to the party in the morning they were 3 Miles on their way
traveling north. For that distance the road was tolerable being near the river. The Mountain came
in near the river but was not so abrupt as it had been nor so high, particularly on the west side of
the river. Passed several indian lodges and encamped opposite to one. Their Lodges were built
differently from any I had before seen. They were 10 or 12 feet square, the sides 3 feet high and
the roof shaped like a house. They were [] built of split pine plank with 2 or 3 small holes to
creep in at. About 1/2 Mile above camp a creek entered on the west side 20 yards wide. Rapid
current.

After camping a canoe came down the river with a good many Deer skins on board. I made signs
for them to come to [me] but they would not. 2 or 3 indians passed down on the opposite side of
the river. I endeavored to persuade them to come over but did not succeed.

Medilding (May 7, 1828)

SMITH: May 7th North 4 Miles then North West 5 Miles following the river as close as the
traveling would permit. Passed through thickets and over two verry high rocky hills from the last
of which the country had a much more promising appearance. Lost several Mules and horses in
the course of the day but found them all again. Several indians came to camp in my absence.

They appeared friendly and made signs that they wished to trade Deer Skins for Axes & knives.
Indian trails were becoming large and lodges of the kind mentioned more plenty than in the
country through which we had for some time been traveling. I saw several places in the course of
the day where there had been axes used. Judging from the size of the river and the appearance of
the country I suppose the river had in the course of the days travel received a tributary from the
East as large or larger than itself.

Supply Creek (May 8, 1828)

SMITH: 8th 2 Miles N W In the morning several indians came to camp different from the
indians I had before seen in the country, particularly in their dress and in the length of their hair

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which was long while nearly all the indians of the Buenaventura valley and the country generally
I have distinguished by the appellation of short haired indians. These indians were clothed in []
Deer Skins Dressed with the hair on. The lower part of the body was left naked. Some of them
had Mockasins. Their lodges were tolerably numerous and they had a few good canoes.

Soon after starting a horse ran off and detained me so long that I did travel but two miles before
encamping. Two of my horses were found dead when we caught up to move on, poisoned as I
supposed by eating some poisonous weed.

Big Creek (May 9, 1828)

SMITH: 9th N W 6 Miles Following the river 3 Miles but it turning more to the North and the
indians informing me by signs that it was Rocky along the bank of the river. I turned N W
following a ridge which was in that direction and encamped 2 or 3 Miles from the river on a
creek. 3 horses lost. An abundance of Elk and some deer sign. One fine Elk killed.

Pine Creek (May 10, 1828)

SMITH: 10th N W 5 Miles. To make this distance I traveled as much as ten Miles first
attempting to move in towards the River with the intention of traveling along its bank but this I
found impracticable and turned back on to the ridge and moved N West untill night over hills
rocky and steep and through thickets and deep ravines to a small creek where I encamped
without any grass for my horses and was therefore obliged to make a pen for them. On
examination I found several were missing, among the rest two that were packed.

 ROGERS: SATURDAY, MAY 10TH, 1828. We made an early start this morning, stearing
 N.W. about 5 miles, thence W. 7 miles and encamped, on a small creek, and built a pen for our
 horses, as we could not get to grass for them. The travelling very bad, several very steep,
 rocky and brushy points of mountains to go up and down, with our band of horses, and a
 great many of them so lame and worn out that we can scarce force them along; 15 lossed on
 the way, in the brush, 2 of them with loads; the most of the men as much fatigued as the
 horses; one of the men, lossed his gun, and could not find it. We have had more trouble
 getting our horses on to-day, than we have had since we entered the mount. We crossed a creek
 close by the mouth 15 or 20 yards wide heading south, and emptying into the river east at an
 course, the current quite swift, and about belly deep to our horses. Some beavers sign
 discovered by the men. The day clear and warm. But one Ind. seen to-day; he was seen by
 Capt. Smith as he generally goes ahead, and I stay with the rear to see that things are kept in
 order.

 Wiregrass Prairie (May 11, 1828)

SMITH: May 11th N W 1 Mile. I went up a verry steep hill and finding grass encamped and sent
4 Men back to look for the lost horses and a gun which had been lost at the same time. The men
returned in the evening having found 13 horses. There was three yet missing and the gun was not
found. The hunters killed three Deer.

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ROGERS: SUNDAY, MAY 11, 1828. As our horses was without food last night, we was up
early, and dispatched four men after those that was left back yesterday, and had the others
packed and under way a little after sun rise, directing our course up a steep point of mountain,
very rocky and brushy about 3/4 of a mile. The course N.W. 2 miles and struck into an open
point of mountain where there was good grass and encamped, as the most of our horse was
nearly down. We had a great deal of trouble getting them up the mountain with there loads on; a
number would fall with their packs, and roll 20 or 30 feet down among the sharp rocks, several
badly cut to pieces with the rocks.

The four men that was sent back returned late in the evening. They had got 12 of the horses
that were missing, and among them the 2 that had loads; the man that lost his gun could
not find it. Three deer killed in the evening, the meat poor.

SMITH: 12th May I remained at the same camp and sent back two men to look for the lost
horses. They found one but could not drive it to camp, therefore they were abandoned.

ROGERS: MONDAY, MAY 12TH. We concluded to remain here to-day and let the horses rest;
2 men sent back after the other horses that are still missing; one left yesterday that could not be
got along, that had entirely given out. The two men returned late, found one of the lossed horses,
but could not drive him to camp, consequently we shall loose them as Capt. Smith intends
moving camp early to-morrow. The day clear and warm.

Big Prairie (May 13, 1828)

SMITH: 13th 4 Miles N W I had flattered myself that I was nearly over the bad traveling But I
found this day of the old kind. The course of the river was N N W and I made an attempt to go
down and travel along its banks but did not succeed and was obliged to wind about among the
hills and mountains.

ROGERS: TUESDAY, MAY 13TH, 1828. All hands called early and ready for a start, directing
our course N.W. over high ranges of rocky and brushy points of mountains, as usual, and
travelled 6 m. and encamped on the side of a grassy mou., where there was an abundance
of good grass for the horses, but little water for them. We had a great deal of difficulty to
drive them on account of brush and the steepness of the points of mountain; two left that
could not travel and a great many more very lame; the weather good.

Mettah Creek Ridge (1) (May 14, 1828)

SMITH: May 14th 2 Miles north. I made another attempt to get in to the river but the rocks
obliged me to take to the hills again. Crossing a deep rocky ravine I found greater obstacles than
I had before encountered in that rough country. I worked with all my men hard during the day
and at night had made but two miles. Two of my horses were dashed in pieces from the
precipices and many others terribly mangled. Some of my packs I was forced to leave in the
ravine all night with two men to watch them.

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, MAY 14TH. We made an early start, directing our course as

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yesterday N.W., and traveled 4 m. and enc. on the top of a high mountain, where there was but
indifferent grass for our horses. The travelling amazing bad; we descended one point of brushy
and rocky mountain, where it took us about 6 hours to get the horses down, some of them falling
about 50 feet perpendicular down a steep place into a creek; one broke his neck; a number of
packs left along the trail, as night was fast approaching, and we were oblige to leave them
and get what horses we could collected at camp; a number more got badly hurt by the falls, but
none killed but this one that broke his neck.

Saw some Inds. that crossed the river in a canoe and came to me; I give them some beads,
as presents; they made signs that they wanted to trade for knives, but I told them that I had
none; they give me a lamper eel dryed, but I could not eat it.

They appear afraid of horses; they are very light coloured Inds., quite small and talkative.
The weather still good.

SMITH: May 15th I went back with several men to fetch in the packs and horses left in the
ravine and worked hard until 3 O Clock before we got them all to camp. Some men out hunting
killed 5 Deer.

ROGERS: THURSDAY, 15TH. MAY, 1828. The men was divided in parties this morning,
some sent hunting, as we had no meat in camp, others sent back after horses and packs that was
left back.

5 Inds. came to camp; I give them some beads; they appear quit friendly; shortly after fifteen or
20 came, and among them one squaw, a very good featured woman; she brought a dressed skin
and 2 worked boles for sale; I bought them from her for beads. The hunters killed 5 deer.
The balance of the horses and packs, was got to camp about 4 oc. in the evening; the men
quit fatigued climbing up and down the hills. The weather still good. Some black bear seen by
the hunters.

SMITH: May 16th My horses being verry lame I thought it most prudent to remain in camp for a
time. I sent two men to examine the country ahead. Some indians came to visit us at camp
bringing with them some Lamprey Eels and Roots for trade. I gave them some presents
purchased their fish and a Beaver skin which one of them had. They had Beads Wampum &
knives. I endeavored to make them understand by signs the direction in which I wished to travel
and to ascertain something of the character of the country but they could not understand me.
They appeared very friendly and I allowed them the privilege of camp. Some of their squaws
was with them.

ROGERS: FRIDAY, MAY 16TH, 1828. We concluded that it was best to lie by today and send
two men to look out a pass to travel, as the country looks awful a head, and let our poor
horses rest, as there is pretty good grass about 1 mile off for them to feed on. 20 or 30 Inds.
Visited our camp in the course of the day, bringing eels for trade and roots; the men bought the
most of them giving awls and beads in exchange. Capt. Smith made them some small presents,
and bought one B. skin from them; the women does the principal trading. Those Inds. are
quite civil and friendly; the weather still good.

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SMITH: May 17th Remaining in camp at 9 O Clock the 2 Men sent out to reconnoiter returned.
They told me that the country to the West was tolerable [and] that the Ocean was not more than
15 or 18 Miles distant. I determined therefore as traveling along the river was so bad to move
towards the coast.

ROGERS: SATURDAY, MAY 17TH, 1828. The 2 men that were sent on discovery
yesterday returned this morning and say that we are 15 or 20 miles of [f] the North Paciffic
ocean; they report game plenty, such as elk and deer; they report the traveling favourable to
what it has been for 30 or 40 m. back. On there return, we concluded to remain here again to-day
on account of our horses being so very lame and soar from the bruises they got on the 14th inst.
The morning cloudy and rainy. The 2 men, Marishall and Turner, that were sent off yesterday,
killed 3 deer, and Capt. Smith has dispatched 2 men after the meat, as the camp is almost
destitute.

Mr. Virgin and Ransa quite unwell this morning. The day continues cloudy and rainy, and quite
cold towards evening.

Bukers Prairie (May 18, 1828)

SMITH: May 18th West 3 Miles along a ridge somewhat thickety and encamped in a small
prairae of good grass. In the course of this short days travel two horses gave out. My men were
almost as weak as the horses for the poor venison of the country contained verry little
nourishment.

ROGERS: SUNDAY, MAY 18TH, 1828. As we intended moving camp, the horses were sent for
early, and got to camp about 10 oc. A.M., packed and started, directing our course W. 3
miles and struck into a small hill pararie, where there was grass and water, and encamped, as
the distance were too great to go to any other place of grass to-day for the horses, from what
Turner and Marishall tell us about the route from here to the ocean. The morning being so
thick with fogg, the men that was sent after the horses did not find them all; Capt. Smith took
2 men with him, and went back after those that could not be found in the morning, and I went on
with the company, and encamped before he joined me with those that he went back after; he
found nine that was left and brought eight to camp, one being so lame that he could not travel,
and he was oblige to leave him; the weather clear and windy.

Gans Prairie (May 19, 1828)

SMITH: 19th May West 6 Miles principally along a ridge brushy and timbered with Hemlock
Pine & Cedar. Some of the Cedar's were the noblest trees I had ever seen being 12 or 15 feet in
diameter tall [] straight & handsome. I encamped in a prairae with the Ocean in sight. 6 Elk were
killed two of them in tolerable order. Counting my horses I found that three were missing. 4
indians that followed us on the trail came up and encamped with us.

ROGERS: MONDAY, MAY 19TH, 1828. We made an early start this morning, stearing our
course as yesterday, 6 miles west, and encamped on the side of a mountain, where their was

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plenty of good grass and water for our horses. Just before we encamped, there was a small
band of elk seen by Capt. Smith and those men that was in front with horses; they went after
them and killed 6, two of which number were in good order. The travelling some better than it
was back, although we have hills and brush to encounter yet; we encamped about 6 m. from the
ocean, where we have a fair view of it.

4 Inds. came to camp in the evening and stay all night. Capt. Smith give them some small
presents of beads and some elk meat; they eat a part and carried the balance off with them;
they appear quit friendly as yet.

SMITH: May 20th I remained in camp to give my lame horses an opportunity to recruit and dry
meat. I sent two men to look for lost horses and Mr. Rodgers & Mr. Virgin to examine the
country towards the Coast. Several indians visited the camp in the course of the day. At night
Mr. Rodgers and Mr. Virgin returned. They had found the traveling along the coast verry bad.
The hills heavily timbered and brushy coming in close to a rocky shore. In their excursion Mr.
Rodgers had left Mr. Virgin a short distance with the horses to get a shot at some Elk. Shortly
after he was gone some indians raised the yell and at the same time let fly their arrows at Mr.
Virgin and the horses. In return he shot one of them down and calling for Mr. Rodgers at the
same time they ran off having wounded one of the horses verry badly but not to prevent bringing
him in to camp. The two men horse hunting did not return.

ROGERS: TUESDAY, MAY 20TH. As our horses was lame and tired, we concluded to remain
here and let them rest, and kill and dry meat, as elk appeared to be plenty from the sign.

After breakfast, myself and Mr. Virgin started on horse back for the sea shore, following an Ind.
trail that led immediately there; after proceeding about 5 m. west, we found we could not get any
further on horse back along the Ind. trail, so we struck out from the creek that we had followed
down, about 3 miles from where we first struck it; this creek being about 40 yards wide,
heading into a mou. south and emptying into the ocean at a N.W. direction. After leaving the
creek with considerable difficulty, we ascended a point of steep and brushy mountain, that
runs along parallel with the sea shore, and followed that, until we could get no further for rocks
and brush. We got within 80 or 100 yards of the beach, but, being pretty much fatigued
and not able to ride down on account of rocks and brush, we did not proceed any further in that
direction. Seeing that it was impossible to travel along where we had been with the company,
we concluded to turn and travel across a point of mou. that run N.E., but we could not get
along, the travelling so bad; we then concluded to stear for camp, as it was get[ting] on
towards night. On our return we saw some elk; I went after them, and Mr. Virgin stay with
the horses. I did not get to fire on them, and saw a black bare and made after him, and shot
and wounded him very bad, and heard Mr. Virgin shoot and hollow in one minute after my
gun were discharged, and tell me to come to him. I made all the haste I could in climbing the
mou. to where Mr. Virgin was; he told me that some Inds. had attacked him in my absence,
shoot a number of arrows at him and wounded the horses, and, he supposed, killed them by that
time, that he had shot one, and was waiting for me. I rested a few minutes and proceed on
cautiously to the place where we had left our horses, and found an Ind. lying dead and his
dog by him, and Mr. Virgin's horse with 2 or 3 arrows in him, and he laying down. We got
him up and made camp a little before night, and there was 7 or 8 Inds. at camp when we got

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there, and I made signs to them that we were attacked by some of there band, shoot at, one of our
horses wounded, and we had killed one; they packed up and put off very soon. The day very
foggy at times; some little rain in the evening. Mr. Smith told me that he had sent two men
back after the horses that were missing with instructions to stay and hunt them until tomorrow, if
they did not find them to-day.

SMITH: 21st May Rainy with a verry heavy fog. The horse hunters returned with one horse. No
indians visited camp.

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST. Still at the same camp; those two men that was sent
after the lossed horses still absent. A considerable quantity of rain fell last night; the morning
continues to be showery and foggy. The men that were sent back after horses yesterday returned,
late in the evening, without finding but one; they say they suppose the Inds. to have killed the
rest. The timber in this part of this country is principally hemlock, pine, and white ceadar, the
most of the ceadar trees from 5 to 15 feet in diameter and tall in proportion to the thickness,
the under brush, hazle, oak, briars, currents, goose berry, and Scotch cap bushes, together with
aldar, and sundry other shrubs too tedious to mention; the soil of the country rich and black, but
very mountainous, which renders the travelling almost impassable with so many horses as we
have got.

SMITH: May 22d I had my horses caught up early but just as I was ready for starting it
commenced raining and made it impossible to travel for the dense fogs quite common to this
coast would prevent me from avoiding the deep ravines and precipices that everywhere came
across my way. Among the animals I observed in the country was Elk, Black tailed Deer &
Black Bear all of them plenty. Some Raccoons, Large and small wolves, Foxes, Wild Cats, Grey
& striped squirrels. The Birds are Large & small Buzards, Crows, Ducks, Ravens, several kinds
of hawks, Eagles and a few small birds among which are Robbins & Humming Birds.

ROGERS: THURSDAY, MAY 22ND, 1828. All hands up early and preparing for a move,
had the horses drove to camp and caught ready for packing up, and it commenced raining so
fast that we concluded to remain here again to- day, as we could [not] see how to direct our
course for fog along the mountains. We have not seen or heard any Inds. since the 20th that Mr.
Virgin killed the one that shoot at his horse.

Oh! God, may it please thee, in thy divine providence, to still guide and protect us through this
wilderness of doubt and fear, as thou hast done heretofore, and be with us in the hour of danger
and difficulty, as all praise is due to thee and not to man, oh! do not forsake us Lord, but be
with us and direct us through.

Mettah Creek Ridge (2) (May 23, 1828)

SMITH: 23d May From the information I had obtained of the nature of the country on the coast I
was convinced of the necessity of retracing my steps and making the attempt to cross Smiths
River where I left it. I previously made another unsuccessful attempt to find a pasage along or
near the coast and early in the morning taking a man with me I endeavored to find a ridge by
which I might pass to the river without following the trail by which I had come out but my

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efforts were unavailing and I returned to the party and moved back on the trail and encamped at
the same place as when I came out. during the past night a north wind cleared the sky from
clouds and left the weather fine.

ROGERS: FRIDAY, MAY 23RD, 1828. The morning being clear, we were ready for a start
early, directing our course east, back on the trail we travelled on the 19th inst, and made the
same camp and stopped, it being 6 miles, and concluded to remain the balance of the day and let
our meat and other wet articles get dry. We had but little difficulty getting along, as we had a
good trail that were made by our horses passing along before; the day clear and pleasant.

Indian Scalp River (May 24, 1828)

SMITH: 24th May Back to the river and down it [] 1 mile below my old encampment. Finding []
no grass on the river I encamped about 1/4 of a mile from the west bank. A little below my camp
and on the opposite side of the River was an indian village where there was some Canoes. I went
down to the River and calling to the indians some of them came over and went with me to camp.
I gave them some Beads and made them understand that it was my intention to cross the river the
next day. One horse lost and two men sent back to find it. During most of the day a heavy fog.
The men returned with the lost horse.

ROGERS: SATURDAY, MAY 24TH. All hands up early and ready for a move about 8 oc.
A.M., directing our course N.E., 4 miles, and encamped within 100 yards of Indian Scalp
river, on the side of the mountain where there was plenty of good grass for our horses.

Capt. Smith went down to the river, where there is a large Indian village on the opposite side,
and called to the Inds., and there were 4 crossed over, 2 men, 1 woman and a boy about 12 or 14
years of age, and came to camp with him; he made them a present of a few beeds. The day
cloudy and misty. There being some horses missing when we encamped, 2 men were sent
immediately back in search of them and found them and got back a little after sun set. One mule
killed this morning by haltering him and throwing him.

Yurok (May 25, 1828)

SMITH: May [2] 5th I packed up early & went down to the river. The indians appeared
suspicious that I had some evil intentions and made signs for me to go off. However after a long
time I prevailed on one of them to come over with a Canoe. I soon convinced him that I only
wished to cross the river and promised to pay him if he would bring 3 or 4 canoes and carry my
things over. No sooner were the indians satisfied as to my designs than they brought over their
canoes and soon my things were all taken across.

In swimming my horses some of them fell too far down and had hard work to get out and others
returned and went out on the same side. I went across with some indians and two men although it
was raining and soon found 12 horses & mules hudled together on the bank. We drove them in
and they swam over. At the same time we found one horse drowned. When we were all over I
sent two men down the river to view the country. during the afternoon the indians visited camp
in considerable numbers. They brought with them a few Lamprey Eels & I got of them a piece of

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salmon, 2 Beaver & an Otter skin. They stole a trap. The explorers returned at night telling me
that the country down the river was tolerably rough.

ROGERS: SUNDAY, MAY 25TH. As is usual when travelling, we was up and made an
early start, directing our course N.E. about 1 mile and struck Ind. Scalp river opposite to an
Ind. village, and got the Inds., with there canoes, to cross our plunder and selves. We drove in
our horses, and they swam across, where they had to swim from 250 to 300 yards. We give
those Inds. that assisted in crossing our goods, beeds and razors for there trouble; there was a
number visited our camp in the course of the day, men, women, and children; some brought
lamprey eels for sale; the men bought them, giving beeds in exchange. Those Inds. live in
lodges built similar to our cabbins, with round holes about 18 inches in diameter for doors; they
appear friendly and say nothing about the Ind. that Mr. Virgin killed on the 20th inst. About 10
oc. A.M., it commenced raining and continued to rain on pretty fast during the day.

We cannot find out what those Inds. call themselves; the most of them have wampum and
pieces of knives. Some have arrow points of iron; they also have some few beaver and otter
skins. Mr. Smith purchases all the beaver fur he can from them. The foundation of there
lodges are built of stone with stone floors; the[y] appear quit affraid when we first reached the
river and called to them, but, after coakesing, one came across with his canoe, and, showing
him by signs what we wanted, he soon complyed, and called to others who came with
canoes and comm. x our goods. Deer killed to-day; the meat all poor.

Blue Creek Mountain (May 26, 1828)

SMITH: May 26th. North 6 Miles. I moved down the river 2 Miles and then struck east on to
high range of hills winding along their summit for several miles and then turning west again in
consequence of a creek that made a deep ravine. I encamped about 2 miles from the river having
traveled about ten miles to make the six above mentioned. 3 Deer Killed 5 having been killed the
day before.

ROGERS: MONDAY, MAY 26TH, 1828. We made an early start this morning, directing our
course N.E., and ascended a very long and steep point of grassy mountain, and reached the
divide, and kept in about 6 miles, the travilling good, and encamped on the side of the
mountain where there was pretty good grass for our horses. I killed one fat buck to-day, and
Mr. Virgin killed a small doe, but poor fat. We counted our horses, and find that three got
drowned yesterday in crossing the river, we saw one of them floating down the river this
morning. The day clear and pleasant; 2 Inds. started with us this morning, as pilots, but soon got
tired and left us.

Blue Creek (May 27, 1828)

SMITH: 27th May W N W 3 miles and encamped on a creek 30 yards wide running west. My
camp was in a small bottom of grass just above the confluence of the Creek and river. The desent
to the creek was down a hill long & steep & thick with brush. One horse left and five or 6 lost. I
sent two men back for them. Several indians inoffensive in appearance and without arms visited
camp.

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ROGERS: TUESDAY, MAY 27TH. Capt. Smith and Mr. Virgin started early this morning
ahead to look out a road to travel; I stay and had the horses caught and packed, and started
following the blazes through the woods, a N.W. course, descending a very steep and brushy
point of mountain, about 3 miles, and struck a creek 25 or 30 yards in width, heading east, and
running west into Ind. Scalp river, and enc. (for the day), as there was some horses missing, and
sent 3 men back on the trail to look after them. There was 8 or 10 Inds. came to camp, soon
after we stoped; Capt. Smith give them a few beeds; they have a fishing establishment on the
creek. The day pleasant and clear; one horse left to-day.

Red Mountain (May 28, 1828)

SMITH: May 28th North East 7 Miles In consequence of the hills which came in close and
precipitous to the river I was obliged to ascend on to a range of hills and follow along their
summits which was verry difficult particularly as a dense fog rendered it almost impossible to
select the best route. I encamped where there was verry little grass and near where the Mountain
made a rapid descent to the north rough & ragged with rocks. I went to the brink of the hill and
when the fog cleared away for a moment I could see the country to the North extremely
Mountainous along the shore of the Ocean those Mountains somewhat lower. From all
appearances I came to the conclusion that I must move in again towards the coast.

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH. We made an early start this morning, stearing our
course N.E. up a very steep and brushy point of the mountain, and got on the ridge, or divide,
between the creek and river, and travelled about 7 miles on it, and enc. on the top of the
mountain, where there was but little grass for horses. The day so foggy that we could scarce
see how to get along on the ridge, at times; late in the evening, it cleared off, and we had a fair
view of the ocean. It appeared to be about 15 or 20 miles distant.

Potato Patch Ridge (May 29, 1828)

SMITH: May 29th. 1 Mile back on the trail. I attempted to move towards the river but the fog
closed around me so thick that I could not see how to travel and finding myself among thickets &
Deep ravines I was obliged to stop and send off men to search for a pass. About 2 O Clock it
cleared off and I was enabled to see the country around me. The general course of the river was
West as far as its entrance. In places are small prairaes along the bank and in others the Mountain
closes in to the water.

ROGERS: THURSDAY, MAY 29TH. All hands up early and making ready for a move; about
10 oc A.M., our horses were collected together, and we got under way, following the trail that we
came yesterday, about 2 miles, S.W., and found some water in a ravine and encamped, the day
being so foggy that we could not see how to direct our course to the river, and sent 2 men to
hunt a pass to travel; they returned in the evening without finding any route that we could
get along with our band of horses. The timber of the country as usual pine and white ceadar.

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West Fork Blue Creek (May 30, 1828)

SMITH: May 30th 2 1/2 Miles N. W. In the morning it was quite clear on the mountain while the
river the deep ravine and the Ocean were hid from view by a dense white Cloud. My route was
down a steep hill in [to] the valley of a creek where I encamped in a small prairae of good grass
1/2 mile from the river. I [went] back with some men to look for some horses and one load that
was lost in the descent of the hill and found 7 horses and the load with the exception of one trap.
2 Elk were killed. In the evening it became again foggy.

ROGERS: FRIDAY, MAY 30TH, 1828. All hands up early this morning and out after horses, as
they were very much scattered, and got them collected about 10 oc., and star[ted] down a step
and brushy ridge, a N.W. course, and travelled about 3 m., and struck a small creek, where there
was a little bottom of good grass and clover, and encamped. The horses got so that it was almost
impossible to drive them down the mou. amongst the brush; 8 or 10 left back in the brush, and
six men sent back after them; they got them to camp just at dark; one lost entirely that the men
could not find; the rear part of the compy, that stay with me, had a serious time running up
and down the mountain after horses through the thickets of brush and briars. 2 elk killed to
day by Mr. Virgin; the morning clear, and the evening foggy.

SMITH: May 31st In the morning it commenced raining and continued during the day. I
therefore did not move camp. In the vicinity I saw a bush resembling a common brier in
appearance only somewhat larger. Its fruit was like a raspberry in taste and shape but larger.
They were ripe at that time and some were yellow and others red. 2 indians came to camp
remained all night and the rain still continued.

ROGERS: SATURDAY, MAY 31ST, 1828. Capt. Smith concluded we would stay here a part of
the day and send 2 men to look out a pass to the river; they returned about 11 o.c.’ and say that
we will be obliged to climb the mountain again at this place, and go along the ridge for 2 or 3
miles, and then descend to the main river, as it is impossible to go along the creek with horses
for cut rocks. As it had commenced raining when those men returned, we concluded to stay here
to day, as there was plenty of good grass for our horses. Two Inds came to camp in the rain, and
brought a few rasberrys that are larger than any species of rasberrys I ever saw; the bush
also differ from those I have been acquainted with; the stock grow from 8 to 10 feet in heighth,
covered with briars, and branches off with a great many boughs, the leaf is very similar to those
vines I have been acquainted with heretofore. Capt. Smith give those Inds. some meat, and they
say they will go with us from here to the ocean.

It rained fast from the time it commenced in the forenoon, untill night.

Turwar Creek (June 1, 1828)

SMITH: June 1st 1828 West 3 Miles and encamped 1/4 of a Mile from the river in a small
prairae where there was some grass. In the course of the day we traveled through dense thickets
and timber and up and down two steep hills made verry bad by the rain of the past day and night
and its continuation during the day. Several horses with their loads were lost.
SMITH: June 2nd Remained at the same camp. At 10 O Clock the sky became [clear?]. Several

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men sent off for the lost horses returned having found all that I had missed. Two harmless and
inoffensive indians visited camp without any arms.

ROGERS: SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST, 1828. We got our horses about 10 o.c. A.M. and packed up
and started in the rain, as it had not quit from the time it commenced yesterday, directing our
course west, up a steep and brushy mountain, and travelled about 3 miles and enc. in a small
bottom pararie, principally covered with ferns; the travelling amazing bad; we left several
packs of fur on the road and lost several pack horses and some loose horses, the day being
so rainy that it was almost impossible to get up and down the mountains; the road became
quite mirery and slippery. Capt. Smith got kicked by a mule and hurt pretty bad. When I reached
camp with the rare [rear], it was night, and all hands very wet and tired.

SMITH: June 2nd Remained at the same camp. At 10 O Clock the sky became [clear?]. Several
men sent off for the lost horses returned having found all that I had missed. Two harmless and
inoffensive indians visited camp without any arms.

ROGERS: MONDAY, JUNE 2ND, 1828. Capt. Smith concluded to remain here and send some
men back after the fur that was left, and to hunt horses; they returned about noon, bringing
all the horses and packs that was left. Some men went hunting but killed nothing. Two
Inds. came to camp and brought some rasberrys; Mr. Smith give them a few beeds. The
morning wet; about 1 o.c. P.M., it cleared off, and the balance of the day fair. Capt. Smith
goes about although he was much hurt by the kick he received yesterday.

Klamath (June 3, 1828)

SMITH: June 3d West 2 Miles. Moving along a ridge passing through a close thicket and down
the point of the ridge into the river bottom. I encamped where I was stoped by swamps and
muddy ground at the distance of half a mile from the river and where there was hardly any grass
for my horses. The tide came up in the river opposite my encampment.

ROGERS: TUESDAY, MAY [JUNE] 3RD, 1828. We made an early start this morning,
directing our course N.W. up a steep point of brushy mou., and travelled about 2 m., and enc.
in the river bottom, where there was but little for our horses to eat; all hands working hard to get
the horses on, as they have become so much worn out that it is almost impossible to drive
through brush; we have two men every day that goes a head with axes to cut a road, and then it
is with difficulty we can get along. The day clear and pleasant.

Hunters Creek (June 4, 1828)

SMITH: June 4th North 1 Mile. Whilst the party were preparing I went ahead looking [for] a
route to pass around the swamp and found one passible by the assistance of axe men to clear the
way along a side hill. In passing along my horses were so much fatigued that they would not
drive well and many of them turned down into the swamp from which we extricated the most of
them with considerable difficulty. Where I encamped there was no grass for my horses. I was
therefore obliged to build a pen for them to keep them from strolling off. Some men sent in the
morning for horses returned having found a part of them.

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ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, MAY [JUNE] 4TH. As our horses were very much fatigued, we
made an early start again, this morning, to get to grass, but, the road proving both brushy
and mirery, we only made 1 1/2 miles, a N.W. course, during the day; the men almost as well
as horses done out. We were obliged to enc. again in the river bottom and build a pen for our
horses, as there was no grass for them. 5 Inds. came to me and brought some rasberrys, and give
me; I give them a few beeds and went on, and left a coloured man by the name of Ransa
with them, and had not been absent but a few minutes before he called to me and said the
Inds. wanted to rob him of his blanket, that they had rushed into the bushes and got there
bows and arrows; he fired on them and they run off leaving 2 or 3 small fishes. The Inds. that
have visited our camps some time back generally came without arms and appeared very
friendly; those I left with Ransa had no arms at the time they came to me, which induced
me to believe that he told me a lie, as I suppose he wanted to get some berrys and fish
without pay, and the Inds. wanted his knife and he made a false alarm, for which I give him a
severe reprimand. The day clear and warm.

Requa (June 5, 1828)
High Prairie Creek (June 5, 1828)

SMITH: June 5th 1 1/2 Mile North West crossing 2 or 3 small creeks and encamped on a creek
20 yard wide running south west. 2 horses & one mule gave out and were left behind. We had no
meat in camp since the morning of the day before and at night I gave out a ration of 1/2 pint of
flour to each man. During the day we hunted hard but saw nothing to kill although there was
some Bear & a little fresh Elk sign. At night therefore as we were quite hungry I gave another
ration of 1/2 pint of flower per man and killed a dog the only one we had in camp. For a long
time I had been traveling in [] a country where our utmost exertions would not enable us to travel
more than 3 or miles per day at most where my horses were mangled by the craggy rocks of the
mountains over which they passed and suffered so much from hunger that I found myself under
the necessity of stopping a while to rest them or run the risk of losing many of them if I should
proceed.

This situation was verry unpleasant because while my men were suffering from hunger and in a
country where there was verry little game they were laying in camp and apparently without the
power of supplying their wants the only alternative being patient endurance with a prospect
ahead not verry flattering for although near the Ocean yet our intended route appeared equally
rough with that over which we had passed. In the vicinity I saw some Beaver sign but the tide
setting up interfered with the design of trapping. An affray which happened the day before
between one of my men and 2 indians and which I neglected to mention in the proper place was
as [follows]:

Two indians following in the rear of our party in company with one of my men offered him some
berries which he took and ate and made signs to them to come on to camp. But they did not
understand him and insisted on being paid for the berries he had nothing to give them and they
attempted to take some of his clothing by force on which he presented his gun and they ran off
he firing as they ran. As he was not a good marksman I presume he did them no hurt. His
account of the affair was somewhat different from this but I presume mine is near the truth.

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ROGERS: THURSDAY, JUNE 5TH, 1828. Our horses being without food again last night,
we packed up and made an early start, sending some men a head to cut a road to where there
was a small bottom of grass on a creek that comes into Ind. Scalp river, about 10 yards wide; the
distance being about 2 miles, a N.W. course. We reached it about 11 o.c.’ A.M., and enc., one
mule and 2 horses left to-day, that could not travel. No Inds. seen to-day; one man sent hunting
but killed nothing, and we are entirely out of provision with the exception of a few pounds of
flour and rice. Capt. Smith give each man a half pint a flour last night for their supper; we
can find no game to kill although there is plenty of elk and bear sign. The day clear and
pleasant. The most of the men went hunting after they had enc., but found nothing to kill; we
killed the last dog we had along, and give out some more flour.

SMITH: June 6th Remained at the same camp and had some of my men engaged in pressing fur
and others hunting. But the hunters after every exertion returned without killing anything. Two
of them traveling North West found a pass to the Ocean. Saw some Elk and got a shot at a Bear.
As no game could be killed I was obliged to kill a young horse which gave us quite a feast.

ROGERS: FRIDAY, JUNE 6TH, 1828. Myself and six men started early hunting, but killed
nothing; 5 others started after we returned, as we intend staying at this camp for several days for
the purpose of recruiting our horses. 8 Inds ventured to camp and brought a few lamprey eels and
some rasberrys; they were soon purchased by Mr. Smith and the men for beeds. The morning
foggy and cloudy, the after part of the day clear and pleasant.

The hunters all returned without getting meat, and we were obliged to kill a horse for to eat.

SMITH: June 7th Remaining at the same camp I sent 2 men forward to hunt directing them to
encamp where it was my intention to stay the first night after leaving that place. Others of my
men were employed in pressing fur and looking for lost horses. 10 or 15 indians visited camp
bringing with them a few Muscles & Lamprey Eels and some raspberries of the kind I have
before mentioned. In the evening when they left us they stole a small Kettle.

ROGERS: SATURDAY, JUNE 7TH, 1828. At the same camp; some men pressing beaver fur,
and 2 sent hunting, and 3 others sent back to look for loossed horses. The horses hunters
returned without finding but one horse; they report 2 dead that was left back. 18 or 20 Inds.
visited camp again to-day with berrys, mussels, and lamprey eels for sale; those articles was
soon purchased, with beeds, by Capt. Smith and the men, and when the Inds. left camp,
they stole a small kittle belonging to one of the men; they come with out arms and appear
friendly but inclined to steal. The day clear and pleasant.

Wilson Creek (June 8, 1828)

SMITH: June 8th North West 5 Miles and encamped on the shore of the Ocean at the mouth of a
small creek where there was tolerable good grass. The high hills which came in close to the
beach of the Ocean presenting a front nearly destitute of timber with bushes breaks and grass in
some places. Verry little game for the hunters after the greatest exertion returned at night without
having killed or even seen any thing to shoot at. Some of the hunters remained out all night.

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ROGERS: SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH, 1828. As we intend moving camp, we was up and ready for a
start, early, stearing our course N.W., about 3 1/2 miles over two small points of mou. and enc.
on the sea shore, where there was a small bottom of grass for our horses. The travelling ruff, as
we had several thickets to go through; it made it bad on account of driving horses, as they can
scarce be forced through brush any more. There was several Ind. lodges on the beach and
some Inds.; we got a few clams and some few dried fish from them. Some horses being left, I
took four men with me and went back and stay all night in a small pararie.

SMITH: June 9th There were several indian Lodges near my camp of whom I purchased a few
muscles & small fish. At 11 O Clock the hunters all came in. For three or four days [] as many of
us as considered ourselves good hunters had [] been employed [] in hunting. During that time
nothing had been killed and but three animals had been shot at 2 Black Bear and one Deer which
we wounded. This was what hunters call bad luck and what we felt to be hard times for we were
weary and verry hungry.

Among other trifling things which the indians brought us to eat was some dried sea grass mixed
with weeds and a few muscles. They were great speculators and never sold their things without
dividing them into several small parcels asking more for each than the whole were worth. They
also brought some Blubber not bad tasted but dear as gold dust. But all these things served but to
agravate our hunger for we were constantly encountering the greatest fatigue and having been
long accustomed to living on meat and eating it in no [] moderate quantities nothing else could
satisfy our appetites.

In the afternoon I took my horse and rode out to make another effort to kill something to
alleviate the sufferings of my faithful party and thanks to the great Benefactor I found a small
band of Elk & killed three in a short time which were in good order. I returned to camp and
directed several men to go with me with some pack horses without telling them what they had to
do. When they came to the spot where the Elk lay their surprise and joy were tumultuous and in a
short time their horses were loaded and they returned to camp to change it from the moody
silence of hunger to the busy bustle of preparation for cooking and feasting. Little preparation
however was necessary when men could be seen in ev'ry part of the camp with meat raw and half
roasted in their hands devouring it with the greatest alacrity while from their preparations and
remarks you would suppose that nothing less than twenty four hours constant eating would
satisfy their appetites.

ROGERS: MONDAY, JUNE 9TH. I was up early and started the men that stay with me all night
after horses and to hunt at the same time for meat, as I had left the camp entirely destitute;
we hunted hard until 9 or 10 o.c. A.M., but killed nothing. Gaiter wounded a black bear,
but did not get him. 6 horses was found that was left, when all hands came in, we saddled
up our horses and started for camp, and reached it about the middle of the day. All the men
that was sent hunting in the morning from camp had come in without killing any thing. Some
Inds. in camp with a few small fishes and clams; the men, being hungry, soon bought them and
eat them. They also brought cakes made of sea grass and weeds and sold to the men for
beeds. Where we encamped, there was a small creek pulling into the ocean at a south direction.
Capt. Smith started out again to try his luck and found a small band of elk and killed 3; he

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returned to camp and got some men and horses and brought all the meat in, which was a pleasing
sight to a set of hungry men. The day clear and pleasant.

SMITH: June 10th Remained at the same camp. My men were employed in making salt and in
cutting & drying Meat. Early in the morning the indians came offering to give the Beads I had
before traded to them for Meat. I soon made them to understand that what I had to spare which
was verry little would be freely given to them.

ROGERS: TUESDAY, JUNE 10TH. We concluded to stay here today, dry meat, make salt, and
let our horses rest, as there is good grass and clover for them. A number of Inds. in camp with
berrys, but do not find so good a market for them as they did yesterday. The morning cloudy and
foggy, some rain towards evening. The men appear better satisfied than they do when in a state
of starvation.

Summit Spring (June 11, 1828)

SMITH: June 11th North 4 Miles. I packed up early and moved on but missing an ax and
drawing knife I stoped the party and searched for them. Not finding them I concluded the indians
had stolen them & went back to some indian lodges close at hand. They were all gone but an old
man who pretended to know nothing about them. I then went to some Lodges above and when
the indians saw us coming they all ran off. But after a while one of them came to me and I told
him that I should keep him until the tools were found and at the same time sent the old man
found at the other Lodges to tell the indians the reason why their friend was detained.

By searching we found the ax covered in the sand under their fire. The drawing knife could not
be found and I took the hostage along tied. After keeping him several hours no indians appearing
to relieve him I let him go. The traveling was verry bad and at 4 miles I came to a deep
impassible ravine and encamped having to build a pen for my horses lost in the course of the
day.

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH. As we intended moving camp, the men was called
early, and, preparing for a start, we were under way about 9 o.c. in the morning, directing our
course N.W. up a steep point of mou. along the sea coast, and travelled about 2 m., and
entered the timber and brush, and kept along a small divide between the sea shore and creek
we left, and travelled 3 m. further and enc. in the woods, without grass for our horses, and built a
pen and kept them in through the night. The travelling very bad on account of brush and fallen
timber; several horses left with packs that got hid in the brush and was passed and not seen by
the men. When we was ready for a start, our fellin axe and drawing knife was missing, and the
Inds. had left the camp. Capt. Smith took 5 men with him and went to there lodges, and the
Inds. fled to the mou. and rocks in the ocean; he caught one and tyed him, and we brought
him on about 2 miles and released him. The axe was found where they had buryed it in the
sand. The day cloudy and foggy.

Cappah Creek (June 12, 1828)

SMITH: June 12th West 1 Mile. Early in the morning I packed up and moved down a ridge with

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considerable difficulty to the beach of the ocean where I encamped. I drove the horses across a
small creek where there was some grass. The horses lost the day before were found and brought
up. 3 of my men quite sick.

ROGERS: THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH. All hands up early and ready for a start, directing our
course W. about 2 miles and struck a small creek, where there was some grass on the mountain
for our horses, and enc. for the day, the traveling very bad. The horses that was left yesterday,
was found to-day, and brought to camp. The day clear; some fog in the morning.

Endert Beach (June 13, 1828)

SMITH: June 13th North N West along a ridge in places rough with thickets and rocks. At night
descending to and encamping on the shore where there was but little grass. In the course of the
day 3 Mules gave out and were left one load was lost and one [] horse was disabled by falling
down a ledge of rocks.

ROGERS: FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH, 1828. We made an early start again this morning, stearing
N.W., about 6 m., and struck the ocean and enc. on the beach. Plenty of grass on the
mountain for our horses, but very steep for them to climb after it. The traveling very
mountainous; some brush as yesterday. 2 mules left today that give out and could not travel;
one young horse fell down a point of mou. and killed himself. The day clear and pleasant.

Cushing Creek (June 14, 1828)

SMITH: June 14th North 1 Mile. It being low tide by passing around a point in the water I was
enabled to travel along the shore and encamped in a prairae of about 100 acres of tolerable grass.
In the vicinity was a plenty of Elk sign. The prospect ahead was somewhat flattering and I was in
hope that we had passed all the mountains. Some men sent back for the purpose found the lost
load and brought up the fatigued mules.

ROGERS: SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH, 1828. We made an early start again this morning,
directing our course along the sea shore N., about 1 mile, and struck a low neck of land running
into the sea, where there was plenty of clover and grass for our horse, and enc. for the day. We
travelled in the water of the ocean 3 or 4 hundred yards, when the swells some times would be as
high as the horses backs. 2 men sent back after a load of fur that was lossed yesterday, and to
look after horses. 2 hunters dispatched after elk as soon as we enc. One fat deer killed
yesterday by J. Hanna. Seven or 8 Inds. came to camp; Capt. Smith give them some beads. The
hunters returned without killing any game; saw plenty of elk sign. The day clear and windy.

SMITH: June 15th I lay by to recruit my horses. Several of us went hunting and Joseph Lapoint
in the morning killed one of the largest [] Elk I had ever seen. He was not verry fat but []
tolerable [] good meat. His size induced me to weigh the meat which I found to weigh 695 lbs
neat weight exclusive of the tongue and some other small pieces which would have made it
above 700 lbs.

In the evenings hunt Mr. Virgin and myself each killed an Elk not as large as the one before

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mentioned but one of them was good meat. In the course of the day several indians visited camp
bringing some Clams small fish Raspberries strawberries and a Root which on the Columbia is
called Commass. These indians traded like those last mentioned.

ROGERS: SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH, 1828. Several men started hunting early, as we intended
staying here to day and letting our horses rest. Joseph Lapoint killed a buck elk that weighed 695
lbs., neat weight; the balance of the hunters came in without killing. A number of Inds. visited
our camp again to day, bringing fish, clams, strawberrys, and a root that is well known by the
traders west of the Rocky mountains by the name of commeser, for trade. All those articles was
soon purchased. The day cloudy, windy, and foggy, some rain in the afternoon. Cap. Smith
and Mr. Virgin went late in the evening to hunt a pass to travel and found a small band of elk and
killed two.

Elk Valley (June 16, 1828)

SMITH: June 16th North 5 Miles. One mile along the beach north & then turning to the right I
traveled 4 Miles across a prairae leaving a range of hills on the East running North not far distant
and thickly covered with Hemlock & Cedar. The prairae was covered with brakes bushes & grass
& had many springs some of which were miry.

ROGERS: MONDAY, JUNE 16TH. We made an early start this morning, directing our
course N.N.W. across a neck of land projecting or running into the ocean, and travelled 4
m., and enc. in a pararie, where there was plenty of grass for our horses. We had considerable
difficulty getting our horses a cross a small branch, that was a little mirery; we were obliged to
make a pen on the bank to force them across, which detained us several hours. The day clear
and warm.

Jordan Creek (June 17, 1828)

SMITH: June 17th 1 Mile north at the end of which I came to the termination of the [] prairae.
Then commenced thick timber and brush and swamps which so much obstructed my progress
that I was obliged to retrace my steps and encamp. I then went with one man on the ridge and
traveled north 4 or 5 miles when I found it impracticable to move in that direction on account of
the thick brush. I returned to camp and sent two men towards the Ocean. When they came in they
reported That there would no difficulty in moving to a prairae not more than a Mile distant. Its
extent they had not time to ascertain. In their excursion they had killed an Elk dressed & hung it
up. Other hunters out killed nothing.

ROGERS: TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH, 1828. We started early again this morning, stearing our
course, as yesterday, N.N.W., 2 miles, and found the travelling in the bottom so amazing brushy
and mirery we concluded to go back a few hundred yards to the pararie and encamp, dry what
meat we had on hand, and send some men to look out a pass to travel when we leave here. We
also sent some hunters out. Joseph Lapoint killed a fine buck elk, and Mr. McCoy killed a fawn
elk. The day clear and warm, plenty of muskeatoes, large horse flies, and small knats to bite
us and pesterous early of mornings and late in the evenings. The timber along the bottom,
ceador, hemlock of the largest size, under brush, hazle, briars, aldar, and sundry other srubs;

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the soil very rich and black.

SMITH: June 18th Remained at the same camp. Sent some men to hunt and others to see which
way it would be advisable to travel. The hunters were unsuccessful and [the men] that were
looking for a road found it impracticable to travel near the Ocean. They observed a Lake [Earl]
of several Miles in extent along the shore of which it was impassible on account Thick brush and
mire.

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH, 1828. We concluded to stay here to day, and dry
meat, and do some work that could not well be dispensed with, and send some men off to hunt
a road to travel to-morrow, as those that were sent yesterday did not reach the ocean. They say
the traveling was tolerable as far as they went. Some more hunters sent out this morning; and
men sent after the meat that was killed last evening. The day clear and very warm. Those men
that was sent to hunt a road, returned late in the evening and say that we cannot travel along
the bottom for swamps and lakes. The hunters returned without killing any game. A number of
Inds. visited our camp with clams, fish, strawberrys, and some dressed skins for sale, also
commerss roots, ready prepared for eating; they appear friendly but inclined to steal without
watching; they differ from the Ind. Scalp river Inds. in speach a little.

SMITH: June 19th Remained at the same camp because I did not wish to move until I knew
whether I could find grass for my horses. I took two men and struck East across the ridge
following an indian trail 2 1/2 Miles when I struck a river 80 yards wide coming from ESE. I
crossed Leaving the Men on the bank and found the river so rapid that my horse fell and, it was
with great difficulty that I got him out. I went 1/2 Mile up the river & recrossed having the same
difficulty as before. The bottoms along the river were brushy but there were some small prairaes
and the hills beyond were bare. On the river was some beaver sign. From the high ground I could
easily see that what the men had taken for a Lake was a bay of the Ocean. From the breaking of
the water without I supposed its entrance to be shallow.

ROGERS: THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH. As those men that was sent to hunt a road yesterday,
returned without assertaining what way we could travel from here, Capt. Smith concluded it
was best for us to remain here again today, and that he would take two men with him and go
to the N.E. across a ridge, and see what kind of travelling it would be in that direction. He
started early in company with two of the men, and returned about 12 o.c., and says that he can
pass on in a N.E. direction very well as far as he went; he discovered another small river heading
in the mountain east of the ocean, and emptying into a bay west about 2 1/2 or 3 miles wide.
5 Inds. in camp today with strawberrys for sale; the day clear and warm.

Smith River (June 20, 1828)

SMITH: June 20th East 2 1/2 Miles & encamped on the North bank of the river which I had
discovered the day before. It was deep fording. My camp was in a small prairae of good grass.
Several men sent hunting.

ROGERS: FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH, 1828. Capt. Smith started early with one man to blaze the
road and left me to bring on the compy. I was ready about 10 o.c. A.M., being detained

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collecting horses that was missing, and started and travelled along an Ind. trail, about 2 m. east,
thence 1 mile N.E., on the blazed road, forded the river that Capt. Smith discovered yesterday,
which was nearly swimming and from 60 to 70 yards wide, and enc. on the east side, in a
bottom pararie that contained about 15 or 20 acres of good grass and clover. About 20 Inds.
came to camp in their canoes, and brought lamprey eels for sale; the men bought a number
from them for beeds. Several of us went hunting, and I killed a fine black tail buck, that was fat.
Marichall killed a small deer.

Myrtle Creek Ridge (June 21, 1828)

SMITH: June 21st North N E 6 Miles. Leaving the river on account of the brush and traveling
along a ridge stony and covered with small brush but verry little timber. As I advanced the
country became rough and the high ridge on which I was traveling extremely rocky. I saw that it
would not answer to move longer and therefore encamped. 3 Deer and a fine Buck Elk killed.
Deer verry plenty in the vicinity.

ROGERS: SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST, 1828. All hands up early and preparing for start. We was
under way about 8 o.c. A.M., directing our course up a steep brushy point of mountain,
about 1 1/2 m. E, and struck an open grassy ridge, or rather a small divide, and kept it about 4
1/2 miles N.E. and enc. The travelling along the divide pretty good and most of the way clear
of brush; some rock. I saw an elk, while moving on, and approached it, and killed it; it
happened to be a very large and fat buck, that would weight, I should say, nearly 600, from
appearance, as I judge from one that we weighed that was killed by Lapoint. Several deer killed
by the compy. The day clear and cold.

Rowdy Creek (June 22, 1828)

SMITH: June 22 N North West 5 Miles Being obliged to move again towards the coast I
followed a descending ridge for 5 Miles and encamped in a prairae. The country was generally
timbered during the days travel but from my camp towards the coast the prospect was generally
prairae.

ROGERS: SUNDAY, JUNE 22. We made an early start again this morning, directing our
course N.W., in towards the ocean, as the travilling over the hills E. began to grow very rocky
and brushy, and travelled 5 m. and enc. in a bottom prararie on a small branch. The road, to-day,
brushy and some what stoney. Timber, hemlock and ceadar, of considerable size, and very thick
on the ground; some trees from 10 to 15 feet in diamitar. The weather still remain good. We had
some considerable trouble driving our horses through the brush.

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REFERENCES

Bushnell, David, Jr. 1938. Drawings by George Gibbs in the Far West, 1849-1851. Smithsonian
Miscellaneous Collections, Smithsoniana Institution, Washington DC. Vol. 97, No. 8: 28 pp.
https://repository.si.edu/bitstream/handle/10088/23887/SMC_97_Bushnell_1938_8_1-28.pdf

Chase, Don 1958. He Opened the West and Led the First White Explorers Through Northwest
California, May-June 1828. Del Norte County Historical Society, Crescent City, California: 33 pp.

Dale, Harrison C. (ed.) 1918. The Ashley-Smith Explorations and the Discovery of a Central Route to
the Pacific 1822-1829. Arthur H. Clarke Co., Cleveland, Ohio: 352 pp.

Davis, Lee 1989. "Tracking Jedediah Smith Through Hupa Territory," The American Indian Quarterly,
Vol. XIII, No. 4: pp. 369-387.

Morgan, Dale L. 1964. Jedediah Smith and the Opening of the West. University of Nebraska Press,
Lincoln, Nebraska: 458 pp.

Pearsall, Clarence, George Murray, A. C. Tibbetts, and Henry Neal 1966. The Quest for Qual-A-Wa-
Loo. The Holmes Book Company, Oakland, California: pp. 25-74.

Sullivan, Maurice S., The Travels of Jedediah Smith, published 1934, Fine Arts Press, Santa Ana: 195
pp.

Whereat, Don 2010. Our History and Culture: The Confederated Tribes of the Coos, Lower Umpqua
and Siuslaw Indians. Self-Published: 386 pp.
https://shichils.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/our_culture__history.pdf