Guidebook #2: Oregon Coast, 23 June – 13 July 1828

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Jedediah Smith Society
 April 2-5, 2023 Rendezvous
The People, Foods, and Landscapes of 1828

 April 2-3 Guidebook (2): Oregon Coast
 June 23 - July 13, 1828

Travels Through the Lands of Tolowa, Tututni, Nasomah,
 Miluk, Hanis & Quuiich
by Jedediah Smith, Harrison Rogers & Alexander McLeod

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This page carries no text — it is a photograph, a map or a plate.

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The 2023 Jedediah Smith Society Rendezvous

 From 1822 to 1830, Jedediah Smith led small fur trade brigades from Missouri to much of the Far West,
including two expeditions to California, the second penetrating Oregon. Dale Morgan, author of the epic
biography Jedediah Smith and the Opening of the West, says Jed’s travels were second in importance to only the
Lewis and Clark expedition. Jed was not only a trapper but also the leading Far West map maker of his time. His
observations of people, botany, foods, and geography are chronicled in his journals, excerpts of which appear in
the four guidebooks prepared for you by Bob Zybach, assisted by Joe Molter.

 The society’s four-day Rendezvous covers only a small part of Jed’s second western odyssey. It starts
near the confluence of the Trinity and Klamath Rivers in California where Jed made contact with the Hoopa
peoples and ends at Fort Vancouver near today’s Oregon-Washington border. You will observe many places
where Jed’s party camped with over three hundred horses and mules, read recovered journals, and study the latest
maps. You will come to understand just how slowly Jed’s men had to move over rough terrain through the
homelands of native tribes—some friendly, some hostile. Driving a large herd inland to find pasture and fresh
water, and navigating the rugged Oregon coast, were especially challenging.

 You will also visit the site near the confluence of the Smith and Umpqua Rivers where fourteen of Smith’s
men were surprised and killed by Kelawatsets while in camp, preparing to continue their journey to Fort
Vancouver. You may be surprised to learn that early accounts of the attack may not tell the whole story.

 The story of the Umpqua attack has been retold many times. Historians generally agree that it is one of
the three significant clashes between mountain men and natives in the 1820s. In July 2000 society members James
Auld and Wayne Knauf led a rendezvous to the Umpqua site that included a memorial ceremony at the campsite
near the confluence of the Smith and Umpqua Rivers where Jed’s men were buried.

 Our Rendezvous also documents the escape route of Jed and three survivors to Fort Vancouver and fort
superintendent John McLaughlin’s subsequent aid in helping Jed to recover some of the supplies, furs, horses,
and mules stolen from the camp. Guidebooks 2 and 3 include the journal of Hudson’s Bay Company brigade
leader Alexander Mcleod, who tells about the return to the Umpqua River area. Another Hudson’s Bay Company
brigade captain who helped was Michael Laframboise, husband of Emily Picard, Wayne Knauf’s great-great-
grandmother.

 The Jedediah Smith Society greatly appreciates the promotional assistance of the Oregon-California
Trails Association, and we are pleased that Jedediah Smith has been nominated to their national Hall of Fame.
James Auld wrote a very interesting article titled “Jedediah Smith’s Disaster at Defeat River,” published in the
2014 Rocky Mountain Fur Trade Journal, available from the Museum of the Mountain Man, Pinedale, Wyoming.
That museum will also be hosting the 2024 National Fur Trade Symposium, “The Eve of the Rendezvous,”
September 12-15, featuring the Jedediah Smith brigade that included James Clyman, Tom Fitzpatrick, William
Sublette and others, through South Pass to the Green River.

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Jedediah Smith Society
 April 2-5, 2023 Rendezvous
The People, Foods, and Landscapes of 1828

 April 2-3 Guidebook (2): Oregon Coast
 June 23 - July 13, 1828

Travels Through the Lands of Tolowa, Tututni, Nasomah,
 Miluk, Hanis & Quuiich
by Alexander McLeod, Jedediah Smith & Harrison Rogers

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This page carries no text — it is a photograph, a map or a plate.

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Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous
 Guidebook #2 Table of Contents: June 23 - July 13, 1828

Winchuck River (June 23, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Chetco River (June 24, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Thomas Creek (June 25, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Pistol River (June 26, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Rogue River (June 27, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Euchre Creek (June 28, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Mussel Creek (June 29, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Brush Creek (June 30, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Sixes River (July 1, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Coquille River (July 2, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Whiskey Run (July 3, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cape Arago (July 4, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Shore Acres (July 5, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Sunset Bay (July 6, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
South Slough (July 8, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Hollering Place (July 9, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
North Spit (July 10, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Winchester Bay (July 11, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Umpqua Bay (July 12, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Defeat River (July 13, 1828) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
References (2023) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

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"The Peace That Passes Understanding," mural painted by Charles Holloway in 1910 is the largest
painting in the Pierre, South Dakota Capitol Building. The scene shows Jedidiah Smith praying over
the dying body of John Gardner, killed in a battle with Aricara Indians in 1923. This is said to depict
"the first public Christian prayer in South Dakota history." Hugh Glass wrote to Gardner's parents
that: "Mr. Smith, a young man of our company, made a powerful prayer, which moved us all greatly,
and I am persuaded John died in peace." (Sullivan 1934: 10A; Auld 2008: 1-2)

ILLUSTRATIONS

Cover: Kevin Kadar 1986. "The Jedediah Smith expedition approaching Cape Blanco in 1828." (Douthit
1986: 42)

Frontispiece: Jose Cisneros 1990. "Jedediah Smith," Commissioned by Jedediah Smith Society, Castor
Canadensis, University of the Pacific, Stockton, California: pp. 5-6.

Title Page: Kevin Kadar 1986. "The Jedediah Smith expedition crossing the entrance to south slough in
1828." (Douthit 1986: 80).

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 Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous Guidebook #2
 Tolowa, Tututni, Nasomah, Miluk, Hanis, and Quuiich Lands
 By Jedediah Smith, Harrison Rogers, and Alexander McLeod
 June 23, 1826 - July 13, 1828

 Oh! God, may it please thee, in thy divine providence, to still guide and protect us
 through this wilderness of doubt and fear, as thou hast done heretofore, and be
 with us in the hour of danger and difficulty, as all praise is due to thee and not
 to man, oh! do not forsake us Lord, but be with us and direct us through.
 Harrison Rogers, Gans Prairie, May 22, 1828

Men's names with J.S. Smith

Winchuck River (June 23, 1828)

SMITH: June 23d North West 8 Miles At 3 Miles I arrived on the shore and from thence I
traveled along the shore and sometimes immediately on the beach for 5 miles and encamped
after crossing a creek 20 yards wide. The hills came within 1/2 mile or a mile of the sea, and
were generally bare of timber. The Low land along the shore and in the valleys covered with
high breaks and has some Miry springs. Many indians visited camp in the evening bringing
berries small fish and Roots for trade. [ ] In the course of the day one Mule gave out and another
ran back on the trail.

ROGERS: MONDAY, JUNE 23RD. All hands up early and preparing for a start; we was under
way about 9 o.c. A.M., directing our course as yesterday N.W., and traveled 8 m. and enc. 3
miles from camp we struck a creek 20 or 30 yards wide and crossed it, thence 5 M. further,
keeping under the mountain along the bottom and sometimes along the beach of the ocean. When
we enc., the hills come within 1/2 mile of the ocean pararie, covered with grass and brakes. A
little before we enc., we discovered the mule that packed the amunition to be missing; four men
was sent immediately back in search of it and found it, and brought to camp just at night. 1 mule
that was lame give out and was left, and another run off from camp, and went back on the
trail with a saddle and halter on. A number of Inds. visited our camp, bringing strawberrys and
commass for sale; the men bought all they brought, giving beeds in exchange. We passed a
number of wigwams during the day. One fine doe elk killed.

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The day good.

Chetco River (June 24, 1828)

SMITH: June 24th West North West 3 miles and encamped at the mouth of a river 50 yards wide
rapid at the mouth but as it was high tide I could not cross. The hills about the same distance
from the coast as the day before and the low land thick covered with brakes scotch caps and
grass. When starting in the morning I sent two men back for the Mules that had been left the day
before. They came in the evening without the mules and I immediately sent two men back but
they soon returned as the indians at a village close at hand did not appear friendly.

Near my camp was a village of 10 or 12 Lodges but the indians had all ran off. Among the
indians of this country I have seen a small kind of Tobacco which is pretty generally cultivated.
These indians Catch Elk in Pits dug in places much frequented. They are 10 or 12 feet deep and
much Larger at the [] bottom than [] top. They are completely covered over and some of my
hunters with their horses fell into one and got out with considerable difficulty.

ROGERS: TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH. We made an early start again this morning, directing our
course N.N.W., and travelled 5 miles, and struck a creek about 60 or 70 yards wide, and,
the tide being in, we could not cross, and were obliged to encamp on the beach of the ocean
for the day. Sent two men back early after the mule that run off last night; they returned without
finding it; and 2 more were immediately sent back in pursuit of it with orders to hunt all the
afternoon and untill 10 or 11 o.c. tomorrow in case they could not find it this evening. The
travelling pretty good yesterday and today; a great many little springs breaks out along under the
mountain and makes it a little mirery in some of the branches. Enc. close by some Ind. lodges;
they all had fled and left them; no visits from them as yet at this camp; 5 or six Inds. came to
camp this morning, just before we started, and brought berries and fish for sale. Capt. Smith
bought all they had and divided amongst the men. The day fair and pleasant.

Thomas Creek (June 25, 1828)

SMITH: June 25th North N West Early in the morning as it was low tide I packed up and forded
the river. During the principal part of the days travel the hill came in close to the rocky shore. I
was therefore obliged to turn out into the hills which were nearly bare of timber but brushy and
cut by some dark ravines. In the morning when my horses were brought up I found two of them
wounded with arrows and in the evening one was missing which I supposed to have been killed.
This day I traveled 12 Miles which was much the best march I had made for a long time. Deer
plenty and some Elk.

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH, 1828. On account of the tide being low, we were ready
for a start a little after sun rise; started and crossed the creek with out difficulty, it being about
belly deep to our horses, and directed our course again N.W., keeping along a cross the points
of pararie near and on the beach of the ocean and travelled 12 m. and enc. on the N. side of a
small branch at the mouth where it enters into the ocean, close by some Ind. lodges; they had run
off as yesterday and left their lodges. The 2 men that was sent back to hunt the mule, returned
to camp a little after night and say the Inds sallied out from their village with bows and

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arrows and made after them, yelling and screaming, and tryed to surround them; they retreated
on horseback and swam a small creek, and the Inds. gave up the chase. When our horses was
drove in this morning, we found 3 of them badly wounded with arrows, but could see no Inds.
untill we started; we then discovered a canoe loaded with them some distance up the creek
close by a thicket and did not pursue them, knowing it was in vain. One deer killed, and several
more wounded, and one elk wounded to-day while travilling. Deer and elk quite plenty. 2 horses
left to-day that give out and could not travel. The travelling tolerable when compared to
former days when in the mou. among the brush; some steep ravines to cross, but not very mirery.
The day clear cold and windy for the season.

Pistol River (June 26, 1828)

SMITH: June 26th N N West 8 miles. On leaving camp I struck out from the Ocean following a
ridge on a circuitous route [] until It came into the Ocean again at the mouth of a creek 20 yds
wide where I encamped. The place from which I started [] in the morning was covered with
brakes & brush when I got out among the hills I found some timber & good grass & where I
struck the [] a sandy soil short grass low Pines Sand Cherries and strawberries.

ROGERS: THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH, 1828. We made an early start again this morning,
stearing, as yesterday, N.N.W. across several points of brushy and steep mou. and travelled 8
m. on a straight line, but to get to the place of enc., about 12 miles, and struck a creek about
30 yards wide at the entrance into the ocean, and, it being high water, we enc. for the day. 2 deer
killed to-day. When we come to count our horses, we found one very valuable one missing that
was killed, I suppose, by the Inds. on the 24 inst., when they wounded the other 3. We followed
an Ind. trail from the time we started in the morning untill we enc.

Rogue River (June 27, 1828)

SMITH: June 27th North 7 Miles. With the exception of two or three steep points which I was
obliged to pass over I was able during the day to travel along the beach. I encamped on the south
side of a bay and close to its entrance which was 150 yards wide. The Bay itself was 3 Miles
long and 1 Mile wide. At low water I found it quite fresh, from which circumstance I infered that
it received a considerable river. After encamping I made rafts that I might be ready to cross the
bay early on the following morning. On each side of the Bay were several indian villages but the
indians had all run off. On a creek which I crossed 3 miles back was some beaver sign and also
some in the bay.

ROGERS: FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH. All hands up early and under way a little after sun rise,
and started along the beach of the ocean, crossed the creek at the mouth, where it was nearly
belly deep to our horses, and purs[u]ed our route along the beach, it bearing N.N.W., and
travelled about 7 miles and struck a river about 100 yards wide at the mouth and very deep, that
makes a considerable bay and enc., and commenced getting timber for rafts. A number of
Ind. lodges on both sides of the river; they had run off, as usual, and left their lodges and
large baskets; we tore down one lodge to get the puncheons to make rafts, as timber was scarce
along the beach. The weather clear and windy. The Inds. that run off raised smokes on the north
side of the bay, I suppose, for signals to those that were absent, or some other villages, to let

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them know that we were close at hand. All the Inds. for several days past runs off and do not
come to us any more.

***************************
McLEOD: Thursday, January 11, 1827. Fine weather, continued our progress, we had not gone
far when we discovered a village situated on the borders of a small river, sent some of our
deputies forward to dissipate the confusion observed among the inhabitants, being on an
eminence we could see all their motions in an instant they had their war garments on, and had
their different weapons in hand, which were not laid aside, until we got in the midst of them, and
given them every assurance of amity. Strengthened with the few trinkets we presented them, had
the desired effect. This river is about 50 yards at ebb tide, termed, Ukejeh there were many
Indians at the village, the majority being up the river, the same case at the other villages we saw,
so that an idea of the population cannot be hazarded without liability to incorrectness. The
Indians accompanying us prove defective in their official capacities, not possessing a knowledge
of the language of these people so accurately as to serve our purpose effectually, on many points
that we wish to get information cannot be obtained, Beaver works continue plentiful and the
natives inform us that in the interior there is plenty, and confess that they never molest them, we
endeavored as well as we could to encourage them to hunt beaver, but pleaded ignorance of the
method of killing these animals, when told that beaver was the object of our pursuit, they
appeared amazed and pointed towards the east of south, saying we would find plenty in small
rivers flowing into the great one, the object of our research which was not far, before sun set if
we continued our rout we would reach it. We accordingly set forward and reached the river about
the hour the Indians told us, by a short rout over land thro' a fine country, covered well, fine
grass in full verdure. This stream is called in the native dialect Toototenez, it falls short of the
description report has given it, in size and depth for it does not exceed a quarter of a mile in
breadth, where we fell upon it about four miles from the sea at a village containing about a dozen
of Indians, for brevitys sake I shall pass over the confusion excited by our unexpected
appearance, which however was attended with no consequence and was spedily terminated and
perfect reconciliation established, which a few trinkets tended to strengthen. Formed our camp
close to the village that we might observe their motions better and fixed on a convenient situation
for our purpose, these people like the rest of their brethren dont trouble themselves about beaver,
tho' vestiges exist in every creek that we past, not half from hence, we observed some of this
date, still these people have not a skin amongst them they confirm the report that up this river
beaver is plentiful, the Indians that accompanied us, kept company with the strangers till late
hour, the few attached to our party as usual to our camp, about an hour after, the others
evaccuated their dwellings except a lame man whose infirmities precluded his following the
others, we find out that the desire of communicating our arriv[al] to their friends influenced them
to depart at such unseasonable hour, these people as well as the others we saw, seem poorly
supplied with the means of subsistence, Whale Bl[ubber] seemingly they have a quantity, a
dainty dish to them in general my men obtained some and praised it very much for its delicacy
indeed it must proved to them for they swallowed it with avidity.

McLEOD: Friday, January 12, 1827. Fine weather, we borrowed canoes from . . . . . . [tears in
manuscript] and proceeded to the junction of the river with the . . . . . . found two villages; one
on the north, and the other onshore, the former inhabited, the latter, one family . . . . . . a
dwelling, judging from the number of huts . . . . . . suggest idea that no small degree of alarm,

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must exist, for it was [obvi]ous, that these dwellings had been lately abandoned , . . . . . . . we
were confirmed in the opinion, that our arrival caus[edl uncommon concern, but observed our
Informant, a prin[cipal] Indian and Leader of the tribe, they have resor[ted] to the . . . . . and will
returned with the evening, which prov[ed to] be the case, and we availed ourselves of the
occasion to present [them] with a few trinkets and notified them of our research . . . . . they told
the same story as the others, that . . . . . river was . . . . . in beaver, that they were ignorant of the
method . . . . . ting the animals and besides having no market for furs made them more indifferent
about them, they further added to our interrogatory questions, that they know of no great river
south of our present situation, that this one on whose banks we situated, was the largest they
were acquainted with or heard of. We formed our Camp on the north shore. Here the river is
nearly a mile from bank to bank — but its channel is obstructed by shoals, formed of gravel, the
bottom of the river is formed of the same and the water very transparent, its entrance very
narrow, ebb tide not three hundred yards wide on each side a bank of sand on which the surf runs
very high, a chain of rocks connected with the point on the north shore, runs several miles out to
sea. The hills are lofty on both sides of the river, clayeish soil, with fine grass in full verdure less
woods on the north, than the south shore as far we could see the hills continuing the same as far
as the sight could extend, in the direction of the river, which appears to come from eastward, the
want of a compass precluded ascertaing this point we have seen many seals on the river and
many other marine animals not unlike the sea lion at which several shots were fired, without
effect. 9 Bustards killed of larger size than any I have seen in this quarter; their colour dark, and
under the wings deep brown.

Euchre Creek (June 28, 1828)

SMITH: June 28th N N West 6 Miles. Early in the morning as it was low water I commenced
crossing. And when I had finished I had lost 12 or 15 drowned in the middle of the water. I know
not the reason of their drowning unless it might perhaps be ascribed to driving them to much in a
body. In three days I had lost by various accidents 23 horses & mules.

ROGERS: SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH, 1828. All hands up early, some fixing the rafts for
crossing the river and others sent after the horses. We had all our goods crossed by 9 o.c.
A.M., and then proceeded to drive in the horses; there was 12 drowned in crossing, and I
know not the reason without it was driving them in too much crowded one upon another. We
have lossed 23 horses and mules within 3 days past. After crossing the river, we packed up
and started along the sea shore, a N.N.W. course, and travelled about 6 miles and enc.,
sometimes on the beach and sometimes along the points of pararie hills that keeps in close to the
ocean; the country back looks broken, and thickety, timbered with low scrubby pines and
ceadars, the pararie hills covered with good grass and blue clover; the country has been similar
as respects timber and soil for several days past, also grass and herbage. One deer killed to-
day.

*********************
McLEOD: Sunday, January 14, 1827. Fine weather, we had an interview with the [princi]pal
Indians of the place at an early hour and notified [them of] our intentions to join our party, and
observed that [we wo]uld again visit them in quest of Beaver, in reply to [which] they replied as
before, that up this river would find……….. [tears in the manuscript] abandoned the idea of

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ascend this river for a proper………..canoes these people have, are not all
calculated…………such strong currents as run in this river, they are [shaped] like [a tr]ough,
square at each end, their breadth about………of their length. On leaving our camp we
went……………animals killed yesterday laid, many Indians………us, to whom we gave the
greatest share, reserving a little…………us forward; while the men were preparing their
[brea]kfast,……..of the natives succeeded in escaping unobserved………..one of our small
hatchets after our search made in which the remainder of the natives joined, to no avail we had
recourse to other means and detained half a dozen of them for sometime, till a message was
delivered to the principal characters, signifying our intentions of recovering the stolen article, or
else ample remuneration made us in return in a short time, three Chiefs with about sixty
followers made their appearance, and informed us that our suspicions were well founded, but that
the offender was out of reach and some days would elapse before the article could be recovered,
to bring the case to a termination, they offered us a hostage and gave us up the services of an
Indian of their tribe till our return when they would recover the stolen article and restore it, this
settlement was acceded to and both parted us with our hostage on our return and the Indians to
their dwellings --- we availed ourselves of the opportunity this circumstance offered of
intimating our abhorence of thieving and that indeed it was the value of the article as the act to
have passed it over in silence might not only leave a bad impression but actuate them to further
aggression, we encamped near river Ukejeh, a few Indians from thence came to us, spent part of
the evening at out camp and went back.

Mussel Creek (June 29, 1828)

SMITH: June 29th N N West 5 Miles. The traveling for the last two days much alike alternately
on the beach and over the hills which generally closed in to the shore near which the country was
generally prairae with some thickets. Farther back from the coast the hills were high rough and
covered with thickets & timber. This day I could have traveled farther had it not been high tide
which prevented me from traveling on the beach and the hills were too rough to allow me to
leave the shore. In the vicinity of my camp the country was clothed with fine grass and other
herbage, a good grazing country though somewhat rough.

ROGERS: SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH, 1828. We made an early start again this morning, stearing
as yesterday N.N.W. along the beach and hills, and travelled 5M. and enc. on account of the
water being high, which prevented us from getting along the shore, or we should have
travelled a great deal further, as the point of the mou. was too ruff that come into the beach to
get along. The travelling yesterday and to-day much alike. I killed one deer after we enc. The day
clear and warm.

***********************
McLEOD: Monday, January 15, 1827. High northerly wind with frequent showers of hail and
snow continued our progress passed the river Ukejeh [Euchre Creek?] had an interview with the
Indians, passed the river Hene Chenni [Mussel Creek?] at dusk we put up in the face of a steep
hill, where we laid much exposed to the wind – two deers killed and one only rendered to the
camp.

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Brush Creek (June 30, 1828)

SMITH: June 30th North 5 Miles. After traveling 2 Miles I was obliged to leave the coast and
travel over the hills to my encampment which was a short distance from the shore where there
was good grass. From a high hill I had an opportunity to view the country which Eastward was
high rough hills and mountains generally timbered & north along the coast apparently Low with
some prairae. In climing a precipice on leaving the shore one of my pack Mules fell off and was
killed.

ROGERS: MONDAY, JUNE 30TH, 1828. We was up and under way in good season,
directing our course N.N.W. along the beach 1 mile, then took a steep point of mountain,
keeping the same course, and travelled over it and along the beach 6 miles more, and
encamped. Lossed one mule last night, that fell in a pitt that was made by Inds. for the purpose
of catching elk, and smothered to death; one other fell down a point of mou. today and got killed
by the fall. The day clear and pleasant.

************************
McLEOD: Wednesday, January 10, 1827. Fine weather, continued our rout, in consequence of
many steep rocks, we had to ascend and descend the hills alternately, little or no wood, having a
foot path along which we followed. Passed the river Quatachen and river Henne-Chenni both
small and not above knee deep water at ebb tide, Beaver vestiges in both, the natives never
molest the we observed also several Sea Otters close to the rocks; one was wounded by a rifle
shot, but for want of a canoe, we lost it, met with some Indians in the course, after their panic
was dissipated and a few presents handed them, they assented to keep us company, so we
continued in company, till evening when we shared our booty of the day with them, having three
deer we gave them one and reserved two small ones for ourselves distance 13 miles. Country
rough tho’ free of woods. Many tracks of Elk and deer. Seen no harbors for vessels along this
part of the coast, except where points of rocks can afford, which are more favorable to Indian
canoes than any other crafts.

Sixes River (July 1, 1828)

SMITH: July 1st 1828 North 9 Miles. At 5 Miles from camp crossed a creek the outlet of a
small Lake on which was some Beaver sign. At this place the hills recede from the shore leaving
a bluff from 30 to 100 feet in heighth. Immediately on this bank is a narrow skirt of prairae and
further back low Pine & brush. The soil thin and loose. Encamped on a river 60 yards wide on
which was some beaver sign. I found the tide too high to cross. For the three past days but one
deer had been killed but as we had dried meat we did not suffer from hunger. We saw
appearances of Elk have been abundant in the vicinity when the grass was tender. For many days
we had hardly got sight of an indian and but one had visited camp since my horses were killed.
In the course of the days travel one of my horses was crowded off from a cliff and killed.

ROGERS: TUESDAY, JULY 1ST, 1828. All hands up early and under way, stearing as
yesterday N. along the beach of the ocean and across the points of small hills and travelled 12
miles and enc. The day clear and warm; one Ind. in camp early this morning. The country for
several days past well calculated for raising stock, both cattle and hogs, as it abounds in good

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grass and small lakes a little off from the beach where there is good roots grows for hogs. One
horse killed again to-day by falling.

****************
McLEOD: Sunday, January 7, 1827. Fine weather, till midday when heavy rain and occasionally
hail came on, accompanied by high S.W. wind – with the rising sun six men and self on board of
a canoe, descended the [Coquille] river to its confluence with the Ocean, from hence afoot along
the beach about 14 miles and sixteen by water, passed a small river by the natives (Chiste etudi)
[possibly New River] formed our Camp near where our people were lately trapping, on the
border of an extensive marsh or swamp. Saw many wild fowl, but the stormy weather precluded
hunting, tho’ our situation and circumstances would render it a necessary expedient for our
means of subsistence entirely depend on the chase.

McLEOD: Monday, January 8, 1827. Fine weather, we started , having previously sent forward
our three Indians, (for we took one on the way) to obtain guides and Interpreters at the next river,
we found them before the Indians came with a canoe, the village being situated on the east bank
of a small lake, which divided us from them, and without a craft we could not get at them, for no
wood is to be found on the west shore, which is composed of sand thrown up by the sea, after
waiting some time at last a canoe brought us, still further delay incurred before we got a guide:
that object accomplished we continued our journey. This tribe of Indians is called, Got tam you,
the discharge of the lake we passed yesterday, and today passed the river of the same name, also
another stream about an hundred yards wide, here we found a deserted village; for want of
timber we were obliged to use the planks with which the natives form their huts to raft us over
the river. Beaver muck seen at every river as we go along, the Indians who never saw a
European face before, seemed to be alarmed, for we observed in the course of the day, several
runing [sic] with all their might from us. Thro’ the means of our Interpreter, we hailed them but
ineffectually. This river termed Squits en. Proceeded about 17 miles and formed our Camp on
the border of a small lake, about a mile and a half long killed 3 geese and a duck, saw Elk tracks,
tho of a late date, yet we are too much hurried to lose time to hunt.

McLEOD: Tuesday, January 9, 1827. Fine weather: as we preparing to start, we saw a Beaver
swimming opposite to our camp, and gave the name to the Lake --- he was shot at but too long
distance to do execution.

Coquille River (July 2, 1828)

SMITH: July 2nd 12 Miles North principally along the shore at 6 Miles from camp passing a
small Lake. During the days travel the hills were generally 3 or 4 Miles from the shore the
intermediate space being interspersed with grassy prairae brush, sand hills & low Pines.

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND, 1828. We made a pretty early start again this morning,
stearing N., and travelled 12 miles, and enc. No accident has happened in regard to horses to-
day. We travelled pretty much along the beach and over small sand hills; the timber, small
pine; the grass not so plenty nor so good as it has been some days past. The country, for 3
days past, appears to leave the effects of earth quakes at some period past, as it is quite cut to
pieces in places and very broken, although it affords such an abundance of good grass and

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clover. The weather still good. As the most of the mens times expired this evening, Capt.
Smith called all hands and give them up there articles, and engaged the following men to go on
with him, at one dollar per day, untill he reaches the place of deposit, viz;

John Gaiter -- Abraham Laplant --
Arthur Black -- Charles Swift --
John Hanna -- Thos. Daws --
Emanuel Lazarus -- Tousaint Marishall

Daws time to commence when he gets well enough for duty.

Also Peter Ranne and Joseph Palmer, at the above named price, one dollar per day, and
Martin McCoy, 200 dollars, from the time he left the Spanish country, untill he reaches the
deposit.

************************
McLEOD: THURSDAY OCTOBER 26, 1826. Rained most part of the day very heavily. We
took advantage of the ebb tide agreeable to our Guides desire. The obscurity of the night
suggested the Idea of entrusting the management of our craft to our new Guests, who acquitted
themselves handsomely course three miles west then turned to the south, up an inlet where we
found an Indian family lodged; being out of danger we waited day light then proceeded as
before, 4 miles and secured our canoe with our baggage and things on the mens backs, we
entered the woods in a westerly course, the distance of six miles and made the Ocean. Continued
our progress on the beach composed of sand hard and level. The close of the day brought us to a
fine river about a hundred and twenty yards broad [Coquille River: McLeod and his men are now
in Miluk Coos territory, near the historical Indian town of Nasomah], except near the sea, it
assumes the shape of a Bay, up this stream, we were told, the country abounded with Beaver; but
that like every other Indian report of the kind deserves little credit. Our unexpected arrival
caused much alarm, as we came unobserved within a few yards of the dwelling of a few families,
before we gave them notice of us; however their fears soon subsided and their aspect recovered
its former gaiety, for we could hear their merriment at the moment we gave notice of our
approach. After distributing a few presents with which these poor people were much gratified we
proceeded to a convenient spot to pass the night, signifying to the natives our intentions of
ascending the river on the morrow, and requested them to notify their friends of our intentions,
and added if they had beaver, would readily traded with them. To all our questions they replied
in the affirmative. Before we had kindled a fire, messengers were off to give notice to their
friends up the river of our mission.

McLEOD: FRIDAY OCTOBER 27, 1826. Weather fine. Prudence dictated the necessity of
keeping watch during the night: the result justified the measure, the night was not far spent when
a party of seven and twenty of the natives came to us, but with no evil intentions, at least we
observed no symptims of hostile inclination on their part, yet it evidently appeared, that the
Indians of our party, stood much in awe, of the Intruders, after a few hours conversation, as well
as we could make ourselves understood and paying them for the few fish they brought, we
signified our wish of going to rest; and the party left and proceeded to the houses close by and
set up a dance, which annoyed us all night. When the day dawned we obtained a Canoe and

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proceeded up the river about 12 miles, visited several little villages from one to the other. The
party of Indians following us increased as we ascended. Altho’ they possess Beaver, they were
not very eager to open a trafic with us. Observing this, I resolved to return to the spot we
occupied last night and to renew our visit on the morrow with more apparent prospects of
success. As far as we have proceeded the river keeps the same width: the country on each side is
low and marshy, beaver vestiges frequently seen and the natives confirm the report that beaver is
plentiful within land. Obtained fresh salmon for our supper. Wild fowl plentiful, time is too
precious to hunt. Traded 3 Sea Otters, 27 large and small beavers and 3 common Otters.

McLEOD: SATURDAY OCTOBER 28, 1826. Rain fell heavily all night, we were so far
fortunate as not to be incommoded by it during the day. Conformable to our resolutions of
yesterday, proceeded up the river and put up at dusk for the night by an Indian dwelling
containing two families the distance we come in short, we made frequent stoppages at the
different residence of the natives, traded 45 beavers large & small.

McLEOD: SUNDAY OCTOBER 29, 1826. The rain falling in torrents all day caused this days
detention: traded a small otter skin. Some Indians cast up with the meat of an Elk, they found
drowned in the river, yet my men relished the meat tolerably well, and made their supper of it.

McLEOD: MONDAY OCTOBER 30, 1826. The rain having abated in the course of the night,
we had an early start, still ascending the river, till about 10 A.M. having reached the limits of our
Journey, we returned towards the sea, but had to put up for the night a few miles above the first
village. The period for our return to our party is drawing to a close, and it would create serious
uneasiness to disappoint our people, to avoid which we need make some exertion on our way
back. Our interrogatory questions to the Natives of this river, produced no satisfactory result,
relative to their knowledge of the Country, or its inhabitants to the Southward of which they
profess themselves ignorant, alledging that they never venture in that direction beyond another
small river about thirty miles from hence, where a few of their friends reside. Seemingly they are
not acquainted with any great body of water in this neighbourhood, they make mention of an old
man residing about the source of this stream, who is in the habit of visiting a river of some note
to the Southward of us, the rout thereto is over land about three or four days Journey, and they
imagine that body of water to be the one we allude to – as far as we have been this stream, the
country wears the same aspect denoting the appearance of possessing beaver. Traded 13 beavers.

McLEOD: TUESDAY OCTOBER 31, 1826. Constant rain during the day. As we intimated our
intentions to the natives of returning in some time hence, we did not fail admonishing them to
make every exertion to collect beaver to trade. Being hurried continued tracing our steps back at
the hazard of wetting our furs having no other means of securing them from wet but by wrapping
them in our blankets. Encamped where we disembarked the 26 Instant [near the mouth of the
Coquille], found our canoe removed from the place we left it: this was caused by the
extraordinary rise of water from the late heavy rain Killed two Bustards many more might shot
had we time for the purpose.

McLEOD: MONDAY NOVEMBER 27, 1826. Fine weather, canoes are not easily got here, as
the Indians have resorted to the upper part of the river where fish is more abundant. It is
moreover reported that the Indians grumble at our presumption in trapping without paying them

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tribute: to see into the truth of this Laframboise and P. [Pierre] Charles took a turn up and visited
several houses, recovered the stolen trap and learned the origin of the above complaints, falls on
two lads with Ignace and Jacques [Iroquois freemen from the Willamette Valley], both of the
Umpqua tribe, and like them, they have given too much scope to their tongues, the first meeting
with them I shall try if little wholesome advice will have effect, if not I warrant other means that
I can command, will keep them in subjection; else their masters require some thing of the kind.

McLEOD: THURSDAY NOVEMBER 30, 1826. Heavy rain all day and night. Laframboise
accompanied P. Charles to set traps, but, meeting an Elk which they killed, returned with part of
the meat. In the evening Aubichon and his associate arrived from trapping no success owing to
the great rise of water from the late excessive rains.

McLEOD: FRIDAY DECEMBER 1, 1826. Rain fell in torrents all night, but subsided a little in
the course of the day. Laframboise accompanyed by [Nicholas] Dupont started for Depaty’s
[Jean Baptiste Depaty dit McKay] Camp with a message to the latter. P. Charles is going for the
remainder of the animal killed yesterday, met with a herd and killed six more, part of which
brought to the camp. Four Beavers brought today. A party of Indians visited us today: some
among them led us to expect them in a day or two, as they had a few skins which they disposed
to trade.

McLEOD: SATURDAY DECEMBER 2, 1826. Constant rain, in consequence of which the
water rises rapidly and proves a serious obstacle against trapping. Men employed in bringing
meat to the camp, till the darkness of the night rendered it necessary to defer till tomorrow to
bring the remainder. A party of Indians came to us and we obtained fourteen Beavers large and
small from them, late in the evening two of our men who were trapping up this river, (Shequits)
arrived with the skins of four beaver, and an otter, they report, the country to be inundated; they
have been up to the forks [apparently Myrtle Point] where they left their companions with their
traps under water and no possibility of getting at them, till the heavy rains subside.

McLEOD: SUNDAY DECEMBER 3, 1826. Heavy rain still prevails, a part of an Elk having
remained on the field was brought to camp. Men and women employed in preparing skins and
curing meat: a job not easily accomplished under such unfavorable weather. 4 Beaver brought to
Camp.

McLEOD: TUESDAY DECEMBER 5, 1826. The rain somewhat subsided and fine weather
ensued but we cant flatter ourselves with the hope of a continuance. Traps gave four Beaver,
various reports are circulated by the Natives rather unfavorable to our views; however
appearances denote no cause of danger, as those stories came thro’ a channel not much to be
relied on, creates of course, little uneasiness, for it is evident those Indians in the marvellous and
endeavor to excel one another in fictions most likely with an intent to dissuade us from
prosecuting our Journey to the Southward; for on this subject they never fail in representing
insurmountable obstacles, and add that the natives are vicious and very numerous, those and
similar other stories of a like nature have of late so often assailed my ears that a repetition passes
unnoticed, nor will all they can say or do deter me from accomplishing the object in view.

McLEOD: WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 6, 1826. Weather fine. Finished scraping the skins and

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made further preparations to proceed up the Channel to join the other division of our party, hired
canoes from a party of Indians that paid us a tempory visit and returned to their quarters.
Dubruille [John Baptiste Dubreuil] and Joudoin [Charles Jeaudoin] gone to bring their traps, they
have leave of absence of the night.

McLEOD: THURSDAY DECEMBER 7, 1826. Rained hard all day, the two men who went
yesterday for their traps returned and brought two beavers as luck would have it, they met a she
Bear and two Cubs, they could only succeed in securing the former, the young ones escaped.
One of our canoes carried off by the rise of the water in the course of the night and brought to us
by an Indian who received suitable compensation.

McLEOD: THURSDAY DECEMBER 28, 1826. Fine weather. Eight men under the guidance of
P. Charles departed for the purpose of trapping in a river southward of us they descend this river
to the sea from hince proceed along the beach, the two Indians that accompany them, are to act
as Interpreters. In the course of the day, the remainder of the party, except Ignace, who attends to
his traps, proceeded down stream below our first encampment, in this stream, many vestiges of
beaver. Few Indians are now seen, to what we formerly saw, occasioned by the failure of fish
which makes the natives resort to other parts.

McLEOD: FRIDAY DECEMBER 29, 1826. Still fine weather, all hands setting traps, with
instructions to be at the camp every night, unless leave of absence is previously obtained. A party
of Indians visited us, they were much gratified with a hearty meal we gave them

McLEOD: SATURDAY DECEMBER 30, 1826. Same weather as yesterday. At dusk Ignace and
family arrived, he caught seven beavers and otters, since we left him others who visited the traps
set yesterday, brought two beavers. More traps set – many shots missed at otters.

McLEOD: SUNDAY DECEMBER 31, 1826. Fine weather still, altho’ beaver so common
hereabouts, the ebb and flow of the Ocean is much against trapping; moreover in land, the height
of the water proves an insurmountable obstacle, for the men can neither, proceed afoot nor with
craft, brush wood and fallen trees obstruct the various channels – 4 Beaver brought to the Camp.
Indians engaged as guides, to show where beaver resides.

McLEOD: MONDAY JANUARY 1, 1827. Fine weather, all the men out the whole day the close
of which brought them home, with only 3 beavers a party of Indians visited us, among whom
were many elderly men whom we interrogated on various subjects, but to little purpose as they
can give us no satisfactory information or else they plead ignorance, it is obvious, fiction is
predominant failing with them.

McLEOD: Tuesday, January 2, 1827. Fine weather. Having but six men about me still they were
not backward in observing the usual ceremony of the new year, a fathom of tobacco given them
on the occasion – afterwards they were directed to decamp – from hince, to a more eligible spot
about seven miles nearer the Ocean [Riverton], which we reached in good time to form our
Camp. Great indication of beaver. Two Elks killed a part of one brought to Camp.

McLEOD: Wednesday, January 3, 1827. Fine weather, the men after bringing the meat we had in

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the field to the camp, went to visit their traps, they only caught one Beaver, two missed, in the
course, we heard beaver playing in the water.

McLEOD: Thursday, January 4, 1827. Rained at intervals. The Indians who accompanied P.
Charles and party arrived, reported no bright prospects little or no Beaver to be found, they
brought the skins of two state that the party will soon be here, unless they find greater
encouragement than they have thitherto experienced, the natives attribute the disappearance of
the beaver to the hight of the water one beaver caught, an Umpqua Indian who ranks as a chief
with this people, voluntarily accompanied us since leaving said river and was one of those that
accompanied the party to the southward on his return yesterday, passing a village situated by this
stream, some miles westward of us, took advantage of a favourable opportunity and seized on the
person of a youth and succeeded in carrying him with impunity: no doubt this act of aggression
will be imputed to us, as being committed by an individual attached to our party; therefore to do
away with any bad impression, this act of cruelty might create, after reproving the old fellow
sharply, in presence of many Indians, for his misconduct took the youth from him and returned
him to his friends.

McLEOD: Friday, January 5, 1827. Heavy rain in the course of the night, succeeded by fine
weather during the day. Sent two men to deliver the above mentioned youth to his Parents, who
were grateful for our interference. Perre Charles & four of the party arrived, the others have
stopped to lay their up a small river where some Beaver vestiges were seen, they have had no
success: seventeen Beaver is all they caught. All hands daily at their traps, they brought eight
beaver today two men stopped out to examine a creek running some distance to the interior.

McLEOD: Saturday, January 6, 1827. Cloudy weather. Aubichon and Joudoin who slept out on
leave of absence, returned today, brought one beaver and two cranes, made preparations to
proceed with a few men along the coast, the object in view is to reach, if possible, the great
[Rogue] river, said to be some distance to the southward all our endeavors to obtain satisfactory
account of it have failed but I hope the excursion in contemplation, will put the question at rest.
Settled two Indians to be of the party, gave instructions to the people remaining at the camp to
continue trapping, turn about day after day, only half of them to absent themselves at once.

McLEOD: Wednesday, January 17, 1827. Weather still more stormy than yesterday, in the
evening the wind increased to a gale, however we reached our camp, found every thing safe, the
night being far spent when we got home, the Indians accompanying us could not keep up, but did
not stop in the rear, our hunters had but little success, both with traps as well as with the gun; yet
it is acknowledged both beaver and elk are plentiful; the rise and fall of water is so frequent and
generally on either extreme which renders trapping a very precarious business at this season.

McLEOD: Thursday, January 18, 1827. Stormy weather continued throughout the day the
arrivals preparing to set traps, granted leave of absence to Kennedy and Laderoute, to be here the
day after tomorrow, to leave their traps set, if appearances justify the measure. Two beaver and
an otter brought to camp, at my suggesting to some of our party previous to my departure on my
late jaunt to proceed to river Cahouse [Coos] for the purpose of trade, the instruction was
followed up, but no success ensued in consequence of the high value the Indians put on the few
furs they possessed, being informed by stragglers that we put an advance on our property, above

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the rate allowed at the establishment which precluded the possibility of settling with them and
without being authorised I am not justifiable in establishing such precedent, as would satisfactory
to those people, for it is very evident they will not give their skins, under the value of the Fort
Vancouver Indian Tariff. I felt somewhat disappointed that Laframboise and party are not
arrived.

McLEOD: Friday, January 19, 1827. Same weather as yesterday with rather less rain men started
in various directions to set traps and hunt large animals provisions scarce.

McLEOD: Sunday, January 21, 1827. Cloudy weather, and light rain all day, an elk and a beaver
brought to camp, the missing of Beaver is echoed from every mouth all day; the meat of three elk
brought in and a beaver. Having barely time for the men to reach the establishment agreeable to
orders, making allowances for detention by stress of weather, it is now necessary to put a stop to
trapping even if time permitted, the weather is too unfavorable for the purpose.

McLEOD: Monday, January 22, 1827. Same weather as yesterday, issued orders for all the traps
to be taken up, in doing which two beaver were found in them. Women employed in scraping
skins settled with the little Chief Kitty yeahun and Neaze who return to their respective homes
along the coast. Made some preparations for starting tomorrow should the weather permit. As the
navigation of the Umpqua is very dangerous at this season of the year, suggests the other rout by
the north east branch of this river, as the surest way, as we can by means of canoes reach the foot
of the mountain from thence men can easily in three days carry our property over to McKays
camp, at least where we last left them in a fine plain at the base of the mountain, southward from
hence. Some of the party having traps above were allowed to start to recover them.

McLEOD: Tuesday, January 23, 1827. Cloudy weather, with frequent showers of rain Aubichon,
Joudoin Turoucoohinna requested to proceed by the Umpqua to recover some property they left
there in November which I agreed to, having no burthen but their own things from where the
navigation is dangerous, they can proceed by land gave a note to Ignace for Laframboise
directing him to afford the party what assistance he can, and take every advantage of the
favorable weather to get forward, directed this little party to keep together with the exception of
Ignace who stopt to finish scraping a skin or two meantime the others go a short distance forward
to lay their traps and are to wait for him, about midday the remainder of the party and self
proceeded a few miles up the river, the heavy rain made us put sooner than we otherwise would
have done, having upwards of two hundred skins in furs and no proper covering gives much
trouble to preserve them from injury. The men who preceeded us yesterday, we found near
where we formed our Camp, they could not recover some of their traps owing to the heavy rise
in the water, in the traps taken up, four Beavers were found in them.

McLEOD: Wednesday, January 24, 1827. The rain fell so heavily that we could not stir many
Beaver vestiges about our camp, induced the men to set a few traps some Indians came to us
from above, report many elk in that quarter water is very high and the current proportionally
strong. In the course of the afternoon Ignace cast up, with a sick child of his, whose indisposition
suggested the idea of coming to us to obtain medical assistance. The childs case is not dangerous,
tho’ the father alarmed.

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McLEOD: Thursday, January 25, 1827. Heavy rain – in the course of the night the water rose
about four feet perpendicular in the river, during the night the Indian that was given us as
hostage, effected his escape he was seduced by an acquaintance of his who residing on this river
who accompanying Ignace, the latter Indian informed of this circumstance took to the woods and
we saw him no more, confirmed us in the opinion that he was privy to the others escape. Ignace
departed in the course of the forenoon, I admonished him to make all haste and join the others, in
fifteen days he expects to reach the old fort at the Umpqua, the appointed place of rendezvous.

McLEOD: Saturday, January 27, 1827. Heavy rain so that were forced to remain in camp, three
elks killed and the meat brought in, three Indians stopped with us, on their way down stream,
with a cargo of camass, their chief subsistence at present, fish having long ago almost entirely
failed in this river which made the majority of the Indians to resort to other places.

Whiskey Run (July 3, 1828)

SMITH: July 3d 5 Miles N N West. At 2 Miles from camp I came to a river 200 yards wide
which although the tide was low was deep and apparently a considerable River. On first arriving
in sight I discovered [] some indians moving as fast as possible up the river in a canoe. I ran my
horse to get above them in order to stop them. When I got opposite to them & they discovered
they could not make their escape they put ashore and drawing their canoe up the bank they fell to
work with all their might to split it in pieces.

ROGERS: THURSDAY, JULY 3RD, 1828. We made a pretty early start, stearing N. along
the pine flatts close by the beach of the ocean, and travelled 2 m., and struck a river about 2
hundred yards wide, and crossed it in an Ind. canoe. Capt. Smith, being a head, saw the Inds. in
the canoe, and they tryed to get off but he pursued them so closely that they run and left it. They
tryed to split the canoe to pieces with thir poles, but he screamed at them, and they fled, and left
it, which saved us of a great deal of hard labour making rafts. After crossing our goods, we
drove in our horses, and they all swam over, but one; he drowned pretty near the shore. We
packed up and started again, after crossing along the beach N., and travelled 5 miles more, and
encamped. Saw some Inds. on a point close by the ocean; Marishall caught a boy about 10 years
old and brought him to camp. I give him some beads and dryed meat; he appears well and
satisfied, and makes signs that the Inds. have all fled in their canoes and left him. I killed one
deer to-day. The country similar to yesterday; the day warm and pleasant.

Cape Arago (July 4, 1828)

ROGERS: FRIDAY, JULY 4TH. We made a start early, stearing N.N.W. 9 m., and enc. The
travelling pretty bad, as we were obliged to cross the low hills, as they came in close to the
beach, and the beach being so bad that we could not get along, thicketty and timbered, and some
very bad ravenes to cross. We enc. on a long point, where there was but little grass for the
horses. Good deal of elk signs, and several hunters out but killed nothing, the weather still good.

Shore Acres (July 5, 1828)

ROGERS: SATURDAY, JULY 5TH, 1828. We travelled 1 1/2 miles to-day N. and, finding

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good grass, enc. as our horses was pretty tired. Two Inds., who speak Chinook, came to our
camp; they tell us we are ten days travell from Catapos on the wel Hamett, which is pleasing
news to us. Plenty of elk signs, and several hunters out, but killed nothing.

Sunset Bay (July 6, 1828)

ROGERS: SUNDAY, JULY 6TH. N. 2 miles to-day and enc., the travelling very bad, mirery
and brushy; several horses snagged very bad passing over fallen hemlock; after encamping, two
elk killed.

ROGERS: MONDAY, JULY 7TH, 1828. We concluded to stay here to-day for the purpose of
resting our horses and getting meat and clearing a road to the mouth of a large river that is in
sight, about 2 miles distant that we cannot get too without. About 100 Inds. in camp, with
fish and mussels for sale; Capt. Smith bought a sea otter skin from the chief; one of them
have a fuzill, all have knives and tommahawks. One a blanket cappon, and a number have
pieces of cloth. The weather for several days past good.

South Slough (July 8, 1828)

ROGERS: TUESDAY, JULY 8TH, 1828. We made an early start, directing our course N. along
the beach and low hills; the travelling very bad on account of ravenes, fallen timber, and
brush. We made 2 miles and struck the river and enc. The river at the mouth is about 1 m.
wide, the Inds. very numerous, they call themselves the Ka Koosh. They commenced trading
shell and scale fish, rasberrys, strawberrys, and 2 other kinds of bury that I am unacquainted
with, also some fur skins. In the evening, we found they had been shooting arrows into 8 of our
horses and mules; 3 mules and one horse died shortly after they were shot. The Inds. all left
camp, but the 2 that acts as interpreters; they tell us that one Ind. got mad on account of a trade
he made and killed the mules and horses. The weather still good. One horse left today that was
ma[i]m[ed].

**********************
McLEOD: WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 1, 1826. The rain continued unabated all night, of
course, we had a restless night, having no other canopy but the heavens. As soon as we could
see, we got afloat and directed our course forward till we reached the rocky point, noticed above,
the tide flooding confirmed the story of our Guide, and we had to wait for the ebb before we
dared venture, therefore we had to stop short of the villages for the night. Killed a couple of
Bustards & a heron, an Elk was wounded, the hurry of the moment only prevented us from
tasting his flesh.

McLEOD: THURSDAY NOVEMBER 23, 1826. It rained heavily all night, the day was fine.
We started to join the small party sent ahead on our rout, who are waiting for us at an appointed
place. Course South, distance 9 miles encamped late and some had to sleep on board their
Canoes for want of a better place. Saw many Indians employed in fishing &c. some wild fowl
killed.

McLEOD: FRIDAY NOVEMBER 24, 1826. Fine weather. Continued the same course as

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yesterday up an inlet to its termination at a portage half mile long [Overland], distance today ten
miles. Our men being stationed at the south end of the portage came to us and returned with each
a load of our things. Some Indians cast up who also assisted, however we had to stop for the
night, at the north end. This little party since leaving the camp, caught 13 Beavers.

Hollering Place (July 9, 1828)

ROGERS: WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH. We made an early start again this morning, and crossed
the 1st fork of the river, which is 400 or 500 yards wide, and got all our things safe across about
9 o.c. A.M., then packed up and started along the beach along the river N., and travelled about 2
miles, and struck another river and enc. We crossed in Ind. canoes; a great many Inds. live along
the river bank; there houses built after the fashion of a shed. A great many Inds. in camp with
fish and berris for sale; the men bought them as fast as they brought them. We talked with the
chiefs about those Inds. shooting our horses, but could get but little satisfaction as they say
that they were not accessary to it, and we, finding them so numerous and the travelling being so
bad, we thought it advisable to let it pass at present without notice. We bought a number of
beaver, land, and sea otter skins from them in the course of the day.

North Spit (July 10, 1828)

ROGERS: THURSDAY, JULY 10TH, 1828. We commenced crossing the river early, as we had
engaged canoes last night; we drove in our horses and they swam across; they had to swim
about 600 yards. Our goods was all crossed about 9 o.c. A.M. and 2 horses that was
wounded, and one was much, remained, that Capt. Smith and 5 men stay to cross; the 2
horses dyed of there wounds, and Capt. Smith swam the mule along side of the canoe. He
was some what of opinion the Inds. had a mind to attact him from there behaviour, and he
crossed over where the swells was running pretty high, and, there being good grass, we enc.
for the day; the Inds. pretty shy.

The river we crossed to-day unites with the one we crossed yesterday and makes an
extensive bay that runs back into the hills; it runs N. and S., or rather heads N.E. and enters
the ocean S.W., at the entrance into the ocean its about 1 1/2 miles wide.

**********************
McLEOD: Tuesday, October 25, 1826. Fine weather. Proceeded about six miles and landed at a
Village of two houses, where we were very hospitably treated and breakfasted on sturgeon and
salmon, after satisfying our host with a few trinkets, we continued our progress after a delay of
two hours half mile further on terminated our Journey by water. Put up our crafts in a secure
place and proceeded along the beach with our baggage and some trading articles to secure a
welcome reception, carried on mens backs in this manner, we drudged on three hours and came
to a small river whose breadth does not exceed thirty yards [probably Tenmile Creek: McLeod
and his troupe are now in Hanis Coos territory], yet Indians find plentiful supply of salmon trout
in it, as we were informed by a few that cast up at the moment we appeared, their habitations
being in the neighborhood they observed our approach from a distance and came to us with
extreme caution apparent dismay, which soon was dispelled when notified of our friendly
intentions, being the first people of a different colour to themselves they had ever seen, their eyes

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were fixed on us, our fire arms attracted particular notice, tho, they were aware of the use of
them had never witnessed an instance of the effect. We lost an hour to allow the men to refresh
themselves and went forward about nine miles and formed our camp near a small Lake, having
receded from the beach since leaving the little river, yet walked on bare sand with now and then
a clump of trees dispersed here and there, the sand is so loose as to leave the prints of a Bears
feet very plain, yet we saw none, and but few tracks of deer; indeed there is no grass to attract the
latter. A messenger was dispatched ahead to notify the natives of our approach.

McLEOD: Wednesday, October 25, 1826. Light rain at intervals, for which we are ill prepared,
having no other covering than a coat and blanket each. Past a restless night; the rain fell so
heavily that we had to lose time in the morning to put our arms in order, after which we
continued our Journey about seven miles to a river or rather an inlet, the discharge of several
rivers [Coos Bay], the most noted is of no great magnitude, the main Channel running into the
Ocean is about a mile broad. This being the season for the salmon trout to ascend the different
streams, the natives had an abundant supply of which we obtained some for trinkets. The main
land is lofty and covered with impenetrable wood, if we can judge from appearances. After the
ceremony of meeting was over, we experienced a work to get an Individual to serve in the
capacity of a linguist further on. No one appeared willing to accept our offer; alledging that they
were unacquainted with the inhabitants of the next river; or rather, I imagine, apprehensive of
trusting themselves amongst them, less they suffer for past aggressions, we had to visit several
habitations and at last succeeded with great deal of entreaty to gain our individual and he
requested, we would grant him the liberty to engage a second, to which we readily assented, by
this time, the day was far spent; however we got out of the reach of the majority of the Indians
and past the night about three miles short of the Ocean, a short distance to the Southward of
where we first made this river. The loose sand heaped by the violence of the wind, proved very
fatiguing to the men who had burthens to carry. We hired a sizable canoe to take us forward our
old Chief and suite declined to go further, he was left to his own will, still we had four natives,
attached to us, seemingly well disposed to serve us, yet the new comers somewhat discomposed,
tho they place every confidence in us, which alone I believe has influenced them to comply with
our solicitations relying on our protecting for their safety. Our Guide informed us, that for
expeditions sake, we ought to take advantage of the ebb tide, as we had a rocky point ahead
[Fossil Point] to double, which at flood tide would be attended with danger.

McLEOD: THURSDAY NOVEMBER 2, 1826. Fine weather. Early in the morning we were on
board reached the principal on the afternoon where we landed our Guide traded ten beaver and
took our leave of these people and reached the little river [Tenmile Creek] where we formed our
Camp for the night. When we past here few Indians were to be seen, now the number is pretty
great; and in fact, they are so much dispersed at this season of the year, that an Idea of their
number must be erroneous, to a person passing amongst them: for my part I dare not hazard an
opinion certain not to come near the thing.

Winchester Bay (July 11, 1828)

ROGERS: FRIDAY, JULY 11, 1828. All hands up early and under way, had an Ind. who speaks
Chinook along as a guide. Our course was N. along the beach of the ocean, 15 miles, and
struck [another] river that is about 300 yards wide at the mouth and enc., as it was not

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fordable. We crossed a small creek, 3 yards wide, 10 miles from camp. To-day we enc. where
there was some Inds. living; a number of them speak Chinook; 70 or 80 in camp; they bring us
fish and berris and appear friendly; we buy those articles from them at a pretty dear rate.
Those Inds call themselves the Omp quch.

The day windy and cold. Several of the men worn out. Peter Ranne has been sick for 6
weeks, with a swelling in his legs. The country about 1/2 mile back from the ocean sand
hills covered with small pine and brush, the sand beach, quit.

Umpqua Bay (July 12, 1828)

ROGERS: SATURDAY, JULY 12TH. We commenced crossing the river early and had our
goods and horses over by 8 o.c., then packed up and started a N.E. course up the river and
travelled 3 M. and enc. Had several Inds. along; one of the Ind. stole an ax and we were
obliged to seize him for the purpose of tying him before we could scare him to make him give
it up. Capt. Smith and one of them caught him and put a cord round his neck, and the rest of
us stood with our guns ready in case they made any resistance, there was about 50 Inds. present
but did not pretend to resist tying the other. The river at this place is about 300 yards wide
and make a large bay that extends 4 or 5 miles up in the pine hills. The country similar to
yesterday. We traded some land and sea otter and beaver fur in the course of the day. Those
Inds. bring Pacific rasberrys and other berries.

************************
McLEOD: Monday OCTOBER 23, 1826. Fine weather. In the course of the forenoon we startd.
in a body, leaving Laframboise in Charge with an assistant. All the families remained at the
camp. After obtaining canoes in addition to the number we have, our party gradually diminished
as we approached the sea. Being coupled in each canoe together they took different directions up
the various streams in hopes of finding beaver. They were directed not to exceed ten or twelve
days absence at which period I expect to return. With five men and two Indians in a canoe,
accompanied by the old Chief and suite in another craft, continued descending the main river till
dark, having run the distance of about seven and twenty miles, put up for the night in sight of the
sea, yet not at the mouth of the river, where breadth gradually increased as we approached the
Ocean, its utmost limits may be about a mile and a half in breadth but at our camp noy above
hundred yards. Past the Villages situated opposite the rapidous purt of the river, for the
convenience of fishing -— past which the navigation is fine, without any impediment in contrary
directions rapids and frequent shoals are often met with. The bottom of the river is of freestone
which adds much to the difficulty of ascending it. After dusk 2 canoes with two Indian families
hove in sight and our followers had to go out to them, before they would venture to come nigh
us; they had a cargo of berries with which they were going forward to exchange the same for
salmon — having to depend on what chance may put in our way for subsistence, we had recourse
to salmon for our supper, which we obtained by way of barter from the Natives coming along.
Saw plenty of wild fowl but could not lose time to hunt.

Defeat River (July 13, 1828)

ROGERS: SUNDAY, JULY 13, 1828. We made a pretty good start this morning, directing our

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course along the bay, east and travelled 4 miles and enc. 50 or 60 Inds in camp again to-day (we
traded 15 or 20 beaver skins from them, some elk meat and tallow, also some lamprey eels). The
traveling quit[e] mirery in places; we got a number of our pack horses mired, and had to bridge
several places. A considerable thunder shower this morning, and rain at intervals through the
day. Those Inds. tell us after we get up the river 15 or 20 miles we will have good
travelling to the Wel Hammett or Multinomah, where the Callipoo Inds. live.

REFERENCES

Auld, James 2008. "The Legend of Jedediah Smith: Fact, Fantasy and Opinion," The Rocky Mountain Fur
Trade Journal, Museum of the Mountain Man, Pinedale, Wyoming: Vol. 2: pp. 1-13.

Auld, James 2014. "Jedediah Smith's Disaster at Defeat River," The Rocky Mountain Fur Trade Journal,
The Museum of the Mountain Man, Pinedale, Wyoming, Vol. 8: pp. 122-136.

Dale, Harrison C. (ed.) 1918. The Ashley-Smith Explorations and the Discovery of a Central Route to the
Pacific 1822-1829. Arthur H. Clarke Co., Cleveland, Ohio: 352 pp.

Davies, Kenneth G. (ed.) 1961. Peter Skene Ogden's Snake Country Journal 1826-27. Publications of
the Hudson's Bay Record Society, London, England: 255 pp. w/2 maps.

Douthit, Nathan 1986. A Guide to Oregon South Coast History. River West Books, Coos Bay, OR: 157
pp.

Hall, Roberta L. 2001. Nah-so-mah Village, Viewed Through its Fauna. Department of Anthropology,
Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon: 59 pp.

Maloney, Alice B. 1940. "Camp Sites of Jedediah Smith on The Oregon Coast," Oregon Historical
Quarterly, Vol. XLI, p. 304-323.

Morgan, Dale L. 1964. Jedediah Smith and the Opening of the West. University of Nebraska Press,
Lincoln, Nebraska: 458 pp.

Pollard, Lancaster 1944. "Site of the Smith Massacre on July 14, 1828," Oregon Historical Quarterly,
Vol. XLV, No. 2, Portland, Oregon: pp. 133-137.

Sullivan, Maurice S. 1934. The Travels of Jedediah Smith, Fine Arts Press, Santa Ana, California: 199 pp.

Whereat, Don 2010. Our History and Culture: The Confederated Tribes of the Coos, Lower Umpqua and
Siuslaw Indians. Self-Published, Reedsport, Oregon: 386 pp.
https://shichils.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/our_culture__history.pdf

Zybach, Bob and Don Ivy 2013. Coquelle Trails: Early Historical Roads and Trails of Ancestral Coquille
Indian Lands, 1826-1875 (2 Vol.). Published by Coquille Indian Tribe, North Bend, Oregon, Oregon
Websites and Watersheds Project, Inc. (ORWW), and NW Maps Co.: 202 pp.
http://www.orww.org/Coquelle_Trails/References/Zybach-Ivy_2013/