Guidebook #3: HBC California Trail, 8 August – 10 December 1828

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Jedediah Smith Society
 April 2-5, 2023 Rendezvous
 The People, Foods, and Landscapes of 1828

 April 4 Guidebook (3): HBC California Trail
 August 8 - December 10, 1828

Travels Through the Lands of Chinook, Kalapuyan, Umpqua, Quuiich,
 Siuslaw & Hanis
 by John McLoughlin, Alexander McLeod & Jedediah Smith

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The 2023 Jedediah Smith Society Rendezvous

 From 1822 to 1830, Jedediah Smith led small fur trade brigades from Missouri to much of the Far West,
including two expeditions to California, the second penetrating Oregon. Dale Morgan, author of the epic
biography Jedediah Smith and the Opening of the West, says Jed’s travels were second in importance to only the
Lewis and Clark expedition. Jed was not only a trapper but also the leading Far West map maker of his time. His
observations of people, botany, foods, and geography are chronicled in his journals, excerpts of which appear in
the four guidebooks prepared for you by Bob Zybach, assisted by Joe Molter.

 The society’s four-day Rendezvous covers only a small part of Jed’s second western odyssey. It starts
near the confluence of the Trinity and Klamath Rivers in California where Jed made contact with the Hoopa
peoples and ends at Fort Vancouver near today’s Oregon-Washington border. You will observe many places
where Jed’s party camped with over three hundred horses and mules, read recovered journals, and study the latest
maps. You will come to understand just how slowly Jed’s men had to move over rough terrain through the
homelands of native tribes—some friendly, some hostile. Driving a large herd inland to find pasture and fresh
water, and navigating the rugged Oregon coast, were especially challenging.

 You will also visit the site near the confluence of the Smith and Umpqua Rivers where fourteen of Smith’s
men were surprised and killed by Kelawatsets while in camp, preparing to continue their journey to Fort
Vancouver. You may be surprised to learn that early accounts of the attack may not tell the whole story.

 The story of the Umpqua attack has been retold many times. Historians generally agree that it is one of
the three significant clashes between mountain men and natives in the 1820s. In July 2000 society members James
Auld and Wayne Knauf led a rendezvous to the Umpqua site that included a memorial ceremony at the campsite
near the confluence of the Smith and Umpqua Rivers where Jed’s men were buried.

 Our Rendezvous also documents the escape route of Jed and three survivors to Fort Vancouver and fort
superintendent John McLaughlin’s subsequent aid in helping Jed to recover some of the supplies, furs, horses,
and mules stolen from the camp. Guidebooks 2 and 3 include the journal of Hudson’s Bay Company brigade
leader Alexander Mcleod, who tells about the return to the Umpqua River area. Another Hudson’s Bay Company
brigade captain who helped was Michael Laframboise, husband of Emily Picard, Wayne Knauf’s great-great-
grandmother.

 The Jedediah Smith Society greatly appreciates the promotional assistance of the Oregon-California
Trails Association, and we are pleased that Jedediah Smith has been nominated to their national Hall of Fame.
James Auld wrote a very interesting article titled “Jedediah Smith’s Disaster at Defeat River,” published in the
2014 Rocky Mountain Fur Trade Journal, available from the Museum of the Mountain Man, Pinedale, Wyoming.
That museum will also be hosting the 2024 National Fur Trade Symposium, “The Eve of the Rendezvous,”
September 12-15, featuring the Jedediah Smith brigade that included James Clyman, Tom Fitzpatrick, William
Sublette and others, through South Pass to the Green River.

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Jedediah Smith Society
 April 2-5, 2023 Rendezvous
 The People, Foods, and Landscapes of 1828

 April 4 Guidebook (3): HBC California Trail
 August 8 - December 10, 1828

Travels Through the Lands of Chinook, Kalapuyan, Umpqua, Quuiich,
 Siuslaw & Hanis
 by John McLoughlin, Alexander McLeod & Jedediah Smith

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Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous
 Guidebook #3 Table of Contents: August 8 - October 5, 1828

Fort Vancouver August 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Willamette River September 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Willamette Falls September 7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Champoeg September 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Pudding River September 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Mill Creek September 21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Santiam River September 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Calapooya River September 23 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Long Tom River September 24 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
East Shore October 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
"Forcible Impression" October 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Mountain La Biche October 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Pass Creek October 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Elk Creek (1) October 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

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Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous
 Guidebook #3 Table of Contents: October 4 - December 10, 1828

Pass Creek (1) October 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Elk Creek (1) October 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Cabin Creek October 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fort McKay October 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Neck of Land October 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Umpqua River October 18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Fort Umpqua (1) October 19 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Grand Cote (1) October 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wells Creek (1) October 21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Indian Creek October 27 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Umpqua Burials October 28 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Pacific Coast (1) October 28 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Siltcoos River (1) October 29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Siuslaw River (1) October 31 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Main Channel November 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Siuslaw River (2) November 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Siltcoos River (2) November 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Pacific Coast (2) November 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tenmile Creek November 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Pacific Coast (3) November 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Blacks Island November 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Wells Creek (2) November 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Grand Cote (2) November 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Fort Umpqua (2) November 19 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Fort Umpqua (3) November 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Elk Creek (2) November 21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Pass Creek (2) November 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Return To Fort Vancouver (November 25-December 10, 1828) . . 23
References 2023 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

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Withheld from this edition pending review. The item keeps its place in the register and its permanent link.

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 Jedediah Smith Society 2023 Rendezvous Guidebook #3
 Chinook, Kalapuya, Umpqua, Quuiich, Siuslaw, and Hanis Lands
 By John McLoughlin, Alexander R. McLeod, and Jedediah S. Smith
 August 10 - December 10, 1828

D'Epatis & Gervais with their followers, are now attached to our Party, forming
in all twenty Men, nearly as many Slaves, besides Mr. S. & his three Men, which
in the Eyes of the Natives, makes a forcible impression . . .
 --Alexander McLeod, Mountain La Biche, October 2, 1828

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Fort Vancouver August 10, 1828: McLoughlin Letter to Hudsons Bay Company

To The Governor Deputy Govr. & Committee
Honble. Hudsons Bay Coy.

Honble. Sirs, O n the 8th Inst. at 10 P.M. an American of the name of Black reached this
place, in his opinion at the time, the only survivor of a Party of Nineteen (19) Americans, the
remainder having been massacred by the Natives of the Umqua River. Black says that he and
seventeen others were engaged to Mr. Smith _ (this is the same that came to the Flat Heads
1824/5 and also whom Capt. Simpson saw last Jany. at St. Francisco) & they left St.
Francisco January last with about three hundred Horses bound for their Depot at Salt Lake.

Leaving St. Francisco they ascended the North Branch of Bonaventura [Sacramento
River] trapping Beaver as they went along till the 14th May, when finding it impossible to
cross the Mountains with their Horses in an Eastern direction they turned West & fell on
a River which took them to the Coast, & proceeded along it to the Umpqua where they
were defeated. At the moment of attack Mr. Smith was off with two men in a Canoe to
ascend & examine Bridge River, a stream that flows into the Umpqua, to see if he could find
a road to take his Horses -- a short time after Mr. Smiths departure, their being about a
hundred Indians in the Camp & the Americans busy arranging their arms which got wet the
day previous, the Indians suddenly rushed on them, two got hold of his (Blacks) Gun to take
it from him, in contending with them he was wounded on the hands by their Knives &
another came with an axe to strike him on the head, which he avoided by Springing on
one side & received the blow on the back. He then let go his Gun & rushed to the woods,
as he was coming away he saw two Indians on one Virgil, another, Davis was in the
water & Indians were pursuing him in a Canoe, a third was on the ground & a band of
Indians were butchering him with axes -- after wandering in the woods during four days he
fell on the Ocean about (by his description of the place) two miles North of the Umpqua &
knowing this Establishment to be here followed the Coast to the Killemau [Tillamook]
Village; the first Indian he saw wanted to pillage him of his knife but this he resisted. A
little after he fell in with seven who stripped him of all his cloathing except his Trousers,
another party joined these & a quarrel took place between the two Parties as he thinks about
himself: during the fray he found an opportunity of reaching the Woods & saw no Indians
till he got to the Killimaux Village, here he got some to take him across Land to the
Willamette to one of our Freemen who forwarded him to this place -- on the 10 Inst.
(yesterday) at mid-day Mr. Smith arrived with the two men who were with him in the
Canoe, he was as I already stated gone with them to examine the Banks of the River; after
proceeding a few miles he returned & when within sight of his Camp seeing none of his
people at the place, it struck him with surprise & while looking about to see where his
people could be, an Indian from the shore spoke to an Indian with him, the latter
immediately turned round, seized Mr. Smiths Rifle & dived in the River, & at the same
time natives that were hid in the Bushes fired on Mr. Smith & his two men, who escaped by
paddling to the opposite bank; he ascended a Hill from whence he saw his Camp distinctly,
but seeing none of his people & from none of them coming forward when he was fired on
though within reach, he naturally concluded they were all cutt off, shaped his course for
the ocean & fell on it at Alique [Alsea] River & followed the Coast to the Killamau
[Tillamook] Village where got Indians to take him to the Williemette & accompany him to
this place. When he was attacked he had two hundred & twenty eight Horses & Mules,

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about Seven hundred & eighty Beaver, fifty or Sixty large Otters & two or three Sea do.
two hundred wt. of Beads & one hundred wt. of Goods & Tobacco, the Indians who
brought Mr. Smith say their were fifteen killed, which with four that got here accounts
for the whole party. Immediately on hearing this melancholy intelligence Indian
Messingers were dispatched towards the Umqua with directions to the Natives if they found
any of the survivors to shew them every kindness & to convey them to this place & that
we would reward them handsomely for their trouble. On hearing Blacks narrative I
enquired of him if they had any quarrel with the Natives, he says the only difference
they had was about an Axe which the Natives stole ten days before they attacked the Party,
to recover which Mr. Smith secured an Indian & tied him, but on the latter promising
to bring it back he was liberated & he brought it back & that previous to reaching
the Umpqua, they had two skirmishes with the natives in which they killed two of them.
Mr. Smith gives the same account. The Indians who accompanied Mr. Smith to this
place also report that the quarrel originated about an axe & the Natives conceiving
them to be a different people from us had acted in this treacherous manner towards
them; this unfortunate affair is extremely injurious to us as the success & facility with which
the Natives have accomplished their object lowers Europeans in their estimation &
consequently very much diminishes our security. As for us every means in our power will
be exerted to assist Mr. Smith in recovering his property.

 I am, Honble. Sirs, Your Obt. Humble Sert.
 Jno. McLoughlin

Inclosed is a Sketch of Mr. Smiths Track from St. Francisco to Fort Vancouver.

Willamette River September 6

McLEOD: Saturday September 6, 1828. Fine Weather--At 4 P.M. left Fort Vancouver, in a Boat
with Six Men having a Canoe in Company, both much incumbered with Baggage, the Boat so
indifferent as to require a Man Constantly Employed baling out Water--shaped our course
towards the Wullamette River, and fixed our Camp for the Night on the 1st Point of its entrance
on the East shore--Mr. J. Smith accompanies us--

 Willamette Falls September 7

McLEOD: Sunday September 7, 1828. Fine Weather ... at 4 P.M. reached the Chuttes
[Willamette Falls], having come a distance of about five and twenty miles--i.e. four miles from
the Entrance of the River to the junction of both Channels--seventeen to the first Rapid and four
to the Portage of three hundred yards over which our heavy baggage was carried by dusk the
Indians assisted and each [received] a bit of tobacco, it was considered ample remuneration--
found a Boat which was left for us--the Men having been oblidged to return for want of
Provisions--few Indians at this place the majority being up the Country. various reports of our
horses, these people like the Generality in this Quarter are so subject to exaggeration that their
assertions are entitled to little credibility therefore their stories treated with indifference.--

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 Champoeg September 8

McLEOD: Monday September 8, 1828. Fine Weather. about six A. M. all our Baggage put on
board of the Boat, being oblidged to leave the Canoe. we proceeded and reached Sampou yea
[Champoeg] at 2 in the afternoon about a Mile short of the place, met Mr. [Thomas] McKay,
[Michel] La Framboise & three Men in a Canoe, who returned with us, the latter arrived to day
from the Umpqua--he had no personal Communication with any of those Indians, he returned
from near the Old Fort, Nasti who accompanied him, acted as Linguist carried a Message to the
Principal Chief of that Tribe who seems still to value our support and seems exasperated at the
late action of the Keliwatset Indians who defeated Mr. Smiths Party--some of the horses have
been taken by the Umpqua Indians, who still possess them, all the Property furs as well as other
things is dispersed over the Country--La Framboise on his return met with some of those Skins in
the possession of a Wullamet Indian and could only recover them in the ordinary way of trade,
from another Individual of the same tribe he got one of the horses in the same way--all of which
we delivered to Mr. Smith--Distance and courses as follows, 1 1/2 Mile S.S.W. a Small River
[Tualatin] runing in from the West 1/2 Mile above the Falls [Oregon City], S.S.E. 1 Mile. S. 1
1/4 Mile. S.E. 1/4 Mile. S.1 2/3 Miles. West 1 Mile. N.W. 1/2 Mile. W. 1/2 Mile. S.W. 1 Mile.
N.N.W. 1/2 Mile. W. 1/4 Mile. W.S.W. 1/2 Mile. S.W. 1 1/2 Mile.--W.N.W. 1/2 Mile. S.W. 2
1/2 Miles. S.S.W. 1/4 Mile. S. 2 1/2 Miles. S.S.W. 2 1/2 Miles. S.W. 1 Mile. W.S.W. 1 Mile.
S.S.W. 1/4 Mile. This days route from the Falls to the Site of the Old Establishment [Champoeg?
Newburg?] where our peoples Camp is situated--horses much reduced principally thru [having
been] left here since last March, and no proper person to Guard them from the Molestation of the
Indians--of late the fire has committed such ravages that Scarcely any feeding is left for our
Animals--Gave the Men their Regale.

 McLeod September 8, 1828 Letter to McLoughlin (Excerpt)

Some of Mr. Smiths Furs have found their way into the Wullameth in possession of Charles from
whom La Framboise, traded them, also a horse from another Indian, both were immediately
delivered to Mr. Smith, and the cost to be placed to his account. From La Framboises report Mr.
Smiths case appears more gloomy than you anticipated or himself conjectured--he is in full
possession of all information brought us on the Subject, and I believe writes you about it: the
Freemen are some distance from hence, they have some skins which will be forwarded when
your people wil part with us: no Indians as yet brought horses, one only I believe was added to
the number, four have been drowned, and two or three are missing, eight or nine days ago,
besides some of the Band I left in march were not found, as yet, I have no correct statement, the
ill usage our horses got from the Indians will I trust be a lesson to us, not to trust others again
without a guard . . . progress will be dilatory owing to the Country being entirely burnt, poor as
our animals are just now, in a short time hence they will be much more so, and I anticipate much
delay from this circumstance.

McLEOD: Tuesday September 9, 1828. Fine Weather. La Framboise & Party proceeded to Fort
Vancouver, to make his report to C. F. McLoughlin, I expect his return in four days and
intimated the Same to my Senior Officer--the Men, such as were not too much affected with
liquor, employed making Saddles--

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McLEOD: Wednesday September 10, 1828. Fine Weather.--the Men employed as yesterday,
many unable to do any job, from the effects of Liquor all the horses that could be found were
brought to Water some Still missing every endeavour to find them failed Caisano and Suite
proceeded to the Southward, on a visit--

McLEOD: Thursday September 11, 1828. Fine Weather. Preparations to Start going forward,
and nearly complete, horses tended to as usual--the Men Still enjoying themselves, but I am glad
to observe that little Liquor now remains in their possession.

McLEOD: Friday September 12, 1828. In the forenoon Cloudy Weather and Rain succeeded in
heavy showers--this circumstance effectually stoped our progress. Mr. Smith shot a Small Deer,
which happened very oportunely as we had no Venison--an attempt to assemble our horses
failed. we anticipated La framboise's arrival, but were disappointed.--all our Baggage is ready--
traps are given to the Men with every other necessary Article for hunting--

 McLoughlin September 12, 1828 Letter to Smith

J: S: Smith Esqr., Dear Sir,
I am extremely sorry to learn from Michel [La Framboise] that your property is so scattered that
their is little probability f recovering it, you write "In the meantime should you think it necessary
for the benefit of your Company to punish these Indians you would confer a favour on your
humble Servant to allow him and his Men to assist" I beg to assure you that in this case I am
actuated by no selfish motives of Interest--but solely by feelings of humanity as I conceive in
our intercourse with such barbarians we ought always to keep in view the future
consequences likely to result from our conduct as unless those Murderers of your people &
Robbers of your property are made to return their plunder, as we unfortunately too well know
they have no horror or compunction of Conscience at depriving their fellow Man of Life--If
strangers came in their way they would not hesitate to murder them for the sake of possessing
themselves of their property, but as it would be worse than useless to attempt more than our forces
would enable us to accomplish and as Mr. McLeod knows those Indians & knows best
whether we can effect any good, he will decide on what is to be done most sincerely Wishing
you success, Believe me to be
Yours truly
Jno. McLoughlin Chief Factor
Hudsons Bay Co.

 McLoughlin September 12, 1828 Letter to McLeod

A. R. McLeod Esqr., Dear Sir,
I received yours of the 8th per Michel Laframboise & am extremely sorry to find by his
Statement that Mr. Smith's affair has a more gloomy appearance than I expected & it seems to be
in that state, either that we must make War on the Murders of his people to make them restore
his property or drop the business entirely.

I know many people will argue that we have no right to make war on the Natives, on the other
hand if the business is drop[p]ed, will not our personal security be endangered wherever this
report reaches--Again suppose that by accident a Vessel was wrecked on the Coast, to possess

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themselves of the property would not the Natives--seeing these Murderers escape with impunity-
-kill all the Crew that fell in their power & say as these now do--We did not take them to be
the same people as you--have not the Natives of Cape Look-out not many years since killed the
Crew of a Vessel wrecked opposite their Village, and is it not our duty as Chnstians to
endeavour as much as possible to prevent the perpetration of such atrocious crimes--& is their
any measure so likely to accomplish so effectually this object as to make these Murderers
restore at least their illgotten booty now in their possession--But it is unnecessary after the
various conversations we have had for me to say any thing further on this subject--You know
those Indians you know our means, and as a failure in undertaking too much, would make this
unfortunate affair worse--& as you are on the spot--you therefore will decide on what is best
to be done and depend that whatever that decision may be at least as far as I am concerned
every allowance will be made for the situation you are placed in.
 I am Sir, Yours truly
 Jno. McLoughlin.

N. B. Laframboise and [Joseph] Cournoyer will go to the Umpqua or return immediately as you
think proper--Mr. Smith offers himself and party to accompany you to War on the Murderers--I
refer him to you for an Answer.

McLEOD: Saturday September 13, 1828. the Weather continued overcast during the night, and
cleared up after day light and continued fine the remainder of the day--Horses collected and
distributed to each man in proportion to Quality, this occupied us the most part of the day and we
had to postpone our departure till tomorrow.--had the Weather permitted, we would have started
a Party as feeding our Animals is very Scanty--at six P.M. M. La framboise & Party arrived from
the Fort (handed me a letter from C.F. McLaughlin intimating a desire to use every means to
warrant the restitution of Mr. Smiths Property--leaving it at my option to take these two Men
with Me. I availed myself thereof as our Number can't be too great in the eyes of the Natives, No
news of Consequence--Several Shots fired at Deer, but none Killed--

McLEOD: Sunday September 14, 1828. Same Weather as yesterday, of course we could not
move--further exertion made to recover our Strayed horses, but without Effect--towards evening
the Weather bore an indication for the better--

 Pudding River September 15

McLEOD: Monday September 15, 1828. Light Rain at intervals, all hands turned out early in the
Morning to Seek our horses and after Noon I proceeded with a Party, leaving others (including
two of Smith's men) with Mr. McKay, to endeavor and find the Strayed horses our route led
Southward, the Want of Grass, made us go till 9 P.M. when we reached a Small River where
there is a little Picking for our Animals. Many horses strayed after dusk, some with their loads--it
past 11 at Night when the rear came up.

McLEOD: Tuesday September 16, 182R. Rainy Weather--Sent back Men and horses, to where
Mr. McKay is as part of our baggage remained there--other Men hunted for the horses that
Strayed from us last Night and recovered Many yet a Number are Missing principally Marrons--
Hunters out but no Success--

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McLEOD: Wednesday September 17, 1828. Cloudy Weather--In the Afternoon Mr. McKay &
his Party arrived, having found the Strayed horses, with the exception of four, that were not Seen
Since my arrival and We suppose them Stolen by Indians inhabiting the Vicinity of Mount
Hood--Caisano arrived from Sandiam River and now proceeds to the Columbia--hunters out
much Shooting two Deers, Killed and some Ducks--three young horses have remained in our
rear and will be sent after in course of tomorrow--

McLEOD: Thursday September 18, 1828. Rainy Weather, so we could not rise Camp. Caisano
departed on his return to the Columbia, by him addressed a few lines to Chief Factor
McLoughlin--a Party of Men made a fruitless attempt to recover four Marrons Strayed on our
way to Sampouyia--a few Deer Killed--

 McLeod September 18, 1828 Letter To McLoughlin (Excerpt)

tho' we made a move on the 15th Inst. we are not above 15 miles forward on our route: this delay
is principally occasioned by our young horses continually straying alternately day after day and
parties hunting them . . . We have had much rain of date with great indication of continuance.
Mr. S[mith] I believe is undecided which route he will take--Turner seemingly declines exposing
himself to further molestation from the hostile tribes of Indians over the Mountains, indeed I am
much in doubt that the Trader will leave us, as he seems so unsettled . . . when the proper time
arrives I shall do all I can that the whole party go together. La Framboise with a party of Men
pass on the west side the Wullamette to endeavour and trade horses . . . all these Freemen have
had much dealings with Indians from whom they have obtained Furs, some I have no doubt to a
large amount-- . . . Gervais as usual will soon git discouraged . . . those people are not alive to
enterprize, and nothing but decisive measures will ever make them leave their favorite country
Wullamette . . .

McLEOD: Friday September 19, 1828. The rain continued at long intervals all day, tho our
horses were collected to make a Move, we were obliged to turn them to the field--5 Deer Killed,
some Indians came about us--but had no furs--Louis Shanagorate came from River Sandiam,
having past the Night with us returned to his Camp this afternoon--

McLEOD: Saturday September 20, 1828. less Rain than yesterday, but our horses having Strayed
in the Night, we lost the day to collect them--hunters out, no success--

 Mill Creek September 21

McLEOD: Sunday September 21, 1828. Flying Showers of Rain, Rised Camp Course South
Distance Twelve Miles. past River Chembukte [Salem; Mill Creek?], In the Afternoon [Joseph]
Gervais, [Jean Baptiste] D'Epatis, Louis & Jacques, Met us at our Camp, they bring us
unfavourable accounts of the Umpqua Indians, it is the common report of other tribes, that the
former are ill disposed towards us, having received large presents from the Kelewasets, who
defeated Mr. Smiths People, are now resolved to support them, elated with their late success,
they expect to make an easy capture of us, as soon as we enter their Country, it is said they are
mustering Strong to way lay us in the woody parts of the Country, Pillage is their object
unmindful of the Consequences, this is the substance of the report brought us by the free Men,

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and they got it from the Lamali Indians [Long Tom Kalapuyans] who have visited the Umpquas.
Encamped at the little River, near half ways over the Point of high land [Turner; Mill Creek?]

 Santiam River September 22

McLEOD: Monday September 22, 1828. Fine Weather, Rised Camp Distance about 8 Miles, to
River Sandiam, where we encamped, the Water being Still high for our horses to ford the
Channel, loaded, and the water falling fast, induced us to wait till tomorrow--Frise & little
Michel are unwell the latter having a Boil, on the inner side of the Thigh so that he can't ride, yet
he must walk, with great Pain and difficulty--the former Complains of a pain in the Breast which
makes riding insuportable--they both reach camp late-- [Charles] Jeaudoin has very sore Eyes--
some Indians brought Skins to trade, which we rejected, referring them to Laframboises Return--
here we found Louis and Jacques Camp--much trouble with Marrons.

 Calapooya River September 23

McLEOD: Tuesday September 23, 1828. Fine Weather--Continued our route, Course the Same
distance 18 Miles--Encamped at River Coupe [Calapooya River] on the North Bank--several
Deer Seen, none Killed--Our Wild horses cause a great deal of trouble, in fact I begin to think we
will have to abandon them, as they cause much trouble and delay--Indians came to us with roots
to trade--

 Long Tom River September 24

McLEOD: Wednesday September 24, 1828. Fine Weather--Continued our progress, about 12
Miles. Course S. & W. Encamped on the West Shore of the Wullamette, fording the River about
Knee deep Water, the Marrons caused three loaded horses to rush into the Deep, two were
drowned loaded with traps & lead--the third loaded with Grain got safe across, every, endeavour
was made to recover the lost Articles without Success--Night put a stop to further exertion. the
Indians seem shy of us--

McLEOD: Thursday September 25, 1828. Fine Weather. Sent People to get Canoes and
conveyed Word to the Indians, in the vicinity, to try their Dexterity in Diving; a Blanket and an
ax, was Stipulated as a remuneration to the Individual who would succeed in finding the horses
or Property--In the Afternoon, one of the Indians, luckily found One, with 19 traps out of twenty,
One supposed to have remained at the Bottom--the other horse is supposed to have been seen,
some Individuals seem to be possitive of having seen it, so that bright hopes exists of recovering
our Property in course of tomorrow--this Evening many Shots fired at Deer, One Only Killed--

McLEOD: Friday September 26, 1828. Fine Weather, Men and Indians employed as yesterday,
but with equal Success as the attempt proved fruitless, and the close of the day put a Stop to
further exertions, the Water is very Cold A Circumstance which ad[d]ed to the Rapidity of the
Current and the Many trees fast at the Bottom, is much against the Divers, a Kind of Grapple was
tryed without producing the desired Effect, the Depth of Water may be about twenty feet, but in
a particular place it exceeds that, Understanding that Gervais had a Slave that was famed for
Diving I sent for him, he cast up about 9 P.M.--the Stipulated reward was given to the Indian,

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that found the horse, this created further exertions , and the hope of Gain held out as an
encouragement to persivere--One Deer Killed--

McLEOD: Saturday September 27, 1828. Fine Weather, throughout the day persivered in our
Search, but ineffectually--the Indians again joined from the exertion Made justify's the Opinion
that the Animal drifted with the force of the Current-- ... Mr. S[mith] who past the Night from
Camp returned with a Deer--

McLEOD: Sunday September 28, 1828. Fine Weather. the Indians wishing to have their Canoes,
to enable them to go in Quest of their food, left us without Means of Continuing our Search,
consequently the Men were divided into three Parties, and directed to make three Canoes, at
which they were employed all day--

McLEOD: Monday September 29, 1828. Fine Weather--at Noon two Canoes being ready,
reassumed the Sea[r]ch till Dusk, without any Success. In the Afternoon a Party of Men, Started
for the purpose of hunting--no Animals in our vicinity, they must proceed to the hill, and in
consequence of the distance have to sleep from Camp.--yesterday Evening D'Epatis came to our
Camp, and assisted the Men, in their endeavours to recover our lost property unsuccessfully--

McLEOD: Tuesday September 30, 1828. Cloudy Weather--About Noon M. La Framboise &
Party arrived, their delay was occasioned by the Indians being dispersed in detached Parties in
various directions, remote from each other, and as the object of the Party was to obtain horses, as
many as possible, much time was lost to visit the different Parties of Indians, and 8 horses only
were traded rather at a more extravagant Price, than we expected, and only our present Situation
could make us pay them so high, Still we require more to make us independent, as once out of
this Section of the Country, no means exists of procuring any--the Men that Slept from Camp
returned with Six Deers--those that remained at Camp, Continued Searching for our lost
property, but in Vain--

**********************
McLEOD: Wednesday October 4, 1826. Weather fine. Before we were ready to start, Aubichon
and family joined us, proceeded four and twenty miles and encamped. Saw some Indians
collecting roots for winter consumption. Country rotten, yet good footing for our horses.
McLEOD: Thursday October 5, 1826. Very sultry weather in consequence of its effect on our
horses, the distance of eighteen miles proved too great for some of them, who became exhausted
previously. Several Indians of both sexes were seen in the course of the day gleaning a miserable
subsistence, composed of vegetable production.

 East Shore October 1

McLEOD: Wednesday October 1, 1828. Fine Weather--Every endeavour to find our lost
property proving fruitless, gave us all hopes, and rised Camp along River Nomtom ba [Long
Torn], distance 15 Miles, Course S. & S.W. Saw Several Deer, some Shots fired without Effect.-
-forded the River and Encamped on the East Shore--In the Evening D'Epatis left us to join his
family he and Gervais are directed to meet tomorrow with their followers, at an appointed place-

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********************
McLEOD: Friday October 6, 1826. Weather fine. Continued our Journey the distance of 13 miles
and put up for the night: previously we met Bt. Depaty & little Ignace, freemen, who have
voluntarily evinced an inclination to accompany us, which was agreed to. Jacques another
freeman, will in a couple of days join us to take his chance with the rest. Three deer killed. Many
Indians seen: some of them came to our Camp in hopes of obtaining a morsel treat which which
they were gratified.

 "Forcible Impression" October 2

McLEOD: Thursday October 2, 1828. Fine Weather, Continued our route, Course South distance
9 Miles, along the Banks of the Same River--D'Epatis & Gervais with their followers, are now
attached to our Party, forming in all twenty Men, nearly as many Slaves, besides Mr. S.[mith] &
his three Men, which in the Eyes of the Natives, makes a forcible impression if we can judge
from the alarm a few Indians s[e]en in the course of the day, got. they instantly Sheltered
themselves in the woods intrities of their Acquaintances appeased them and they came to us
afterwards quit[e] composed.--hunters out but no success--

*****************
McLEOD: Monday October 9, 1826. Cloudy weather. Continued our Journey thro' the plains the
distance of six miles and encamped, having a piece of woody country in our front to pass on the
morrow. A Buck Elk killed and brought to camp. The fire seemingly continued its devastation
even into the woody country; a circumstance that has reduced our horses considerably: an evil
without remedy.

 Mountain La Biche October 3

McLEOD: Friday October 3, 1828. Fine Weather, Started at the usual hour, when our horses got
fagged put up. Distance 15 Miles Direction South--Entered the Mountain, bad Water and no
Grass--hunters traveled much no Success--

 Pass Creek (1) October 4

McLEOD: Saturday October 4, 1828. Fine Weather, La Framboise with two Men, proceeded to
the Eastward, to recover a horse belonging to Mr. Smith, Said to be in possession of Indians in
that Quarter Proceeded Six Miles and encamped finding plenty of Grass and Water for our
Horses, many of whom are poor already--No Deer Seen--no Indians seen in this Section of the
Country, supposed to be occasioned by a general alarm among the different tribes, and we know
not where they have fled to.--

 Elk Creek (1) October 5

McLEOD: Sunday October 5, 1828. Fine Weather, Continued our progress in a Southerly
direction till over the Mountain La Biche then Westerly along the River of the Same Name,
forded it and pitched our Camp on a fine Plain, where my Camp stood two months last Winter--
Distance today 18 Miles, according to Indian report we were led to expect Seeing Indians in this

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Vicinity, it was even asserted and believed by some of our Party, that, they would way lay us, in
Woods through which we past in course of to day but that like many other Indian stories proved
Groundless as we have not discovered even late Vestiges--three Deer Killed the first we got
since leaving the Wullamette River--Gervais tried the Woods for Elk and did not come to Camp-

McLEOD: Monday October 6, 1828. Fine Weather--All hands who have any pretention to
hunting, tried their Skill, many shots were fired and only five Deer Killed--Gervais returned this
forenoon, he sa[w] two tracks of Buck Elk, but could not over take them. Laframboise arrived
and brought the horse he went for, the Property of Mr. Smith accordingly made over to him.--
Indians Laframboise went to, informed him that those of the Umpqua, hearing of the Strength of
our Party, and supposing our intention hostile, got intimidated and were of[f] to the Mountains,
this is a new version and likely without foundation. Charles and Toloqua will be here tomorrow,
their Errant is for traps formerly lent them and now Claimed in case of need.--No Indians
discovered as yet--La Framboise had to leave his horse on the Way.

McLEOD: Tuesday October 7, 1828. Fine Weather.-- Toloquois & Charles arrived brought
traps--Indian vestiges of a late date Seen not far from our Camp, on the Mountains, supposed by
Spies watching our movements--a few Deer Killed.

******************************
McLEOD: Tuesday October 10, 1826. Rain most part of the day. As we were in motion and had
entered the woods, some time previously, the only alternative was to proceed about 15 miles to a
fork of Elk river, where we stopped for the night. Country hilly, yet the road good and good
footing for the horses.

McLEOD: Wednesday October 11, 1826. Rained all day. Two beavers caught, an Elk killed.
Two men went in quest of two horses that remained in our rear and could not find them.

McLEOD: Thursday October 12, 1826. Light rain. Our strayed horses recovered by means of
Indians. Some individuals proceeded on our rout for the purpose of hunting. Unfavorable
weather stopped us these two days. Indians came to us bare handed; of course no business with
them transpired.

 Cabin Creek October 8

McLEOD: Wednesday October 8, 1828. Fine Weather, In consequence of late information
Stating the Umpqua Indians to be collected, with the Chief at their head, and Stationed at the Site
of the Old Establishment on Said River, and those people possessing horses belonging to Mr.
Smith and our route being in that direction, we proceeded forward, Course as usual Southerly
Distance 18 Miles, encamped on a Branch of the Umpqua, corning from the N.E.--in course of
the day saw Some Indians a head who took to the woods as soon as they saw us, as it was of
importance to our object to have a Communication with them an Indian of our party was sent to
them with a suitable Message which had the desired effect and
confirmed the former Story relative to the Indians being assembled at the Same place as above
Stated--saw other Indians on the summit of the hills none came to us till after we were encamped
their assertions tends to confirm what others told us

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with the exception of the residence of the Chief and Party who are Some distance to the
Eastward of the site of the Old Establishment. they have some horses but the number our
informants can not tell, Many have been killed by the Natives on the Coast and a loss sustained
in conveying them from the Sea--a Bear and a Couple of Deer killed.--Bears said to be numerous
of the Grizzly Kind.--it is worthy of remark that most of the Men composing the Party are ailing
in some Shape or other some lame--others Sick some with sore Eyes not five Sound in Health--

 Fort McKay October 9

McLEOD: Thursday October 9, 1828. Fine Weather--Continued our route Distance 11 Miles,
Course South, Encamped on the Umpqua River, on the North Side near the Site of the Old
Establishment Some Indians residing in the Vicinity fled at our approach, but were soon made to
return, as their Countrymen accompanying us appeased their fear--and they returned to their
habitations treated them in the customary way--a few Deer Killed.

McLEOD: Friday October 10, 1828. Fine Weather--Sent a Message to the Chief to come to us
and is expected in a day or two.--Indian intelligence purporting that four of Mr. Smiths Men are
in the custody of Cahoose Indians, how these people escaped, we are left to conjecture, Several
Indians affirm that they are in existence, if the Old Chief confirms the report [it] will remove my
doubts on the Subject. two horses and a mule were brought to Camp being Mr. S[mith] 's
Property--one of our lads States to have Seen an other while hunting on the South Shore, a few
Deer Killed.

McLEOD: Saturday October 11, 1828. Fine Weather--the Umpqua Chief with a Dozen of his
tribe arrived, they have brought 8 horses restored them to their owner Mr. Smith--had a
conversation with this Leader, St. Arnoose, who has been in person on a visit to the Kellywasats
after they defeated Mr. Smiths Party, and we enquired into the Cause that gave rise to that
unfortunate affair, and the Old man Stated, that while Mr. Smiths people were busy fixing
Canoes together by means of Sticks, to convey their Baggage over the Channel, an ax was
mis[s]ed and suspicion led to suspect the Indians of having embez[z]led it consequently to
recover the Property an Indian of that tribe was seized tyed and otherwise ill treated, and only
liberated after the Ax was found in the Sand, this Indian happened to be of Rank, of course much
irritated at the treatment he met with, declared his intentions to his tribe, to retaliate on the
offenders, but he was overruled, by an Individual higher in Rank and possessing greater
influence, subsequently this same man wishing to ride a horse for amusement about the Camp
took the liberty of mounting one for the purpose when one of Mr. Smiths men, having a Gun in
his hand and an irritated aspect desired the Indian angrily to dismount, the Indian instantly
obeyed, hurt at the Idea and suspecting the Man disposed to take his life he gave his concurrence
to the Plain [Plan?] in agitation in which discussion, the Indians were much influenced by the
Assertions of the other Party, telling them that they were a different people from us, and would
soon monopolize the trade, and turn us out of the Country these Circumstances and harsh
treatment combined caused their untimely fate, at a moment the[y] least expected it.--the
property the Indians got is all disposed of along the Coast--Our Informant can't say anything
possitive regarding the 4 Whites Said to be in the neighbourhood of River Shiquits or Cahoose,
he having heard of it merely as a flying report, from that Quarter through the Interior--we

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requested him to endeavour and obtain what information he could Glean on the subject.--
understanding, that Several horses were Still to be recovered in this Section of the
Country, we defer[r]ed remunerating the Indians till we had got all--intimated our wish to the
Chief to interest himself therein, which he promised to do, and proposed to start on the Morrow
on that Mission--2 Bears & 9 Deer Killed--

McLEOD: Sunday October 12, 1828. Fine Weather.--Four Men went off on a hunting excursion
wil return tomorrow--St Arnoose departed with one of our Young Men, agreeable to his promise
of yesterday, various reports propagated by the Indians about here, relative to the Disposition and
intention of the Kellywasat tribe, the Old Chief enquired if we intended to make war which we
answered in the Negative, knowing his disposition towards them of old, he and his Nation would
readily take arms against them more especially if supported by us to enhance his own merrit--
being told our wish was to Establish Peace and Quietness and recover what could be got of Mr.
Smiths Property, and restore the Same, seemed to give Satisfaction, but privately with some of
his intimate Acquaintances the Old fellow, entered more minutely into the subject, and expressed
his surprise at our interference in aiding and assisting People that evinced evil intentions towards
us, as he had been informed by the people who defeated the Party, they having communicated
something about territorial Claim, and that they would soon possess themselves of the Country,
makes the Natives about us very inquisitive not having ever heard such a thing before, and we
avoid giving them any information, and treat the subject with derision. Mr. Smith when told of
this, observed that he did not doubt of it, but it was without his knowledge and must have been
intimated to the Indians through the Medium of a Slave boy attached to his Party, a Native of the
Wullamette--he could converse freely with those Indians--as to the Origin of the Quarrel as
Stated yesterday by the Old Chief Mr. Smith affirms to have tied an Indian and set him free
when the ax was restored, but denies having used blows or any manner of violence except
Seizing him--[Arthur] Black acknowledges to have seen a Chief mount a horse without leave and
ordered him to desist but not in an angry tone neither did he present his Gun, but had it in his
hand, and he adds the Indian immediately dismounted, shortly after the party was attacked and
defeated--

McLEOD: Monday October 13, 1828. Fine Weather--hunters returned with the meat of a
Gra[Gray or Grizzly?] Bear & two Deer two other Deer were Killed close by in the hills, the Old
Chief returned with ten horses--Mr. Smith has received up to this date 26 Horses and Mules--one
of the Number the Old Man brought today, was left on the way, from excessive weakness--the
other is at too great a distance to be got at now, however, they will soon be recovered--

McLEOD: Tuesday October 14, 1828. Fine Weather. three Men got leave to Sleep out for the
purpose of hunting will return tomorrow--the Old Chief got Several Articles as a remuneration
for his Services, which he distributed among his followers, who assisted in bringing horses up
from the Coast, they appeared satisfyed and the Old Man unasked proposed to accompany us on
our intended journey to the Sea Coast--and at our request promised to be here in two days with
Six Canoes to convey the Party from the Verveau, to the Sea, this precautionary Measure is taken
in case of not finding Canoes on the route, the hire of each costs us a half Ax--in course of Last
Night 4 Natives attached to the Party, in the Service of the free Men deserted, three of them
having Guns were wise enough not to leave [them?], besides helping themselves to Some
Ammunition and other Small Articles, their intention is to return to the Wullamette--at present

Page 24

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we have no leisure to Send in quest of them, as it would take much time, and likely to no
purpose--

McLEOD: Wednesday October 15, 1828. High Southerly Wind--indicative of a change in
Weather.--the hunters who Slept out returned brought three Deer and a Bear--others who hunted
from Camp brought in four more Deer to Camp--a Messenger was dispatched with a letter to
those people reported to be in the Neighborhood of Cahoose or Shiquits River, Mr. Smith is of
Opinion that Ephraim] Logan & three other Men [James Scott, Jacob O'Hara, and William Bell]
have not visitted their Deposit last Season, and were proceeding towards his route,
and possibly fell on his track and have come forward till their progress was arrested by the
Natives, the probability of this Conjecture having some foundation, an Indian acquainted with
the route through the Interior, was hired to convey them information of our endeavours to afford
them every assistance in our power, that our means will warrant--other Indians as well as the
One we engaged to have heard the Same Account of those People as above narrated--

McLEOD: Thursday October 16, 1828. Some Rain fell in the Night, but the Weather Continued
fine all day--The Old Chief agreeable to promise arrived brought the Six Canoes as Stipulated--
Five of Mr. Smiths horses got in to day and delivered to him--Preparations making to Start on the
Morrow for the Coast Mr. Smith with a Man is to be of the Party making a total of Twenty--the
others have enough to do about Camp under the Charge of Mr. T. McKay.

***************************
McLEOD: Friday October 13, 1826. Fine weather; continued our progress for eleven miles along
the little river, at its junction with the other, those who left us, had encamped and were ready to
start when we arrived: they killed 3 deer. Roads fine, yet very hilly. Saw some Indians as poor as
Job.

 Neck of Land October 17

McLEOD: Friday October 17, 1828. Left the Camp in charge of Mr. M.Kay and a Party of Men
and Started with Laframboise and Sixteen Men accompanied by Mr. J.S. Smith & one of his
Men [Black?]--The two others left with Mr. M Kay to take care of the horses--our Canoes
Navigated by Indians, the Old Chief volunteered to be of the party and took charge of the Crafts,
we took horses to facilitate our return as by Water it would prove tedious and delaytory--Our
route led over a Neck of Land, very hilly, Course Northerly, distance 15 Miles Encamped on the
Main Umpqua River--

 Umpqua River October 18

McLEOD: Saturday October 18, 1828. Continued our progress 12 Miles and Encamped, Course
west of north, our track led along the River in many places Country hilly and occasionally thick
woods.

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 Fort Umpqua (1) October 19

McLEOD: Sunday October 19, 1828. Raised Camp Distance 8 Miles--Course west of North
Some Deer Killed. Saw the Carcasses of Several horses, Killed by the Indians a long time ago--
the Chief and his followers came up with us about Dark, who confirmed our Conjectures about
the horses, he was of the Party.

*************************
McLEOD: Friday October 13, 1826. Fine weather; continued our progress for eleven miles along
the little river, at its junction with the other, those who left us, had encamped and were ready to
start when we arrived: they killed 3 deer. Roads fine, yet very hilly. Saw some Indians as poor as
Job.

McLEOD: Sunday October 15, 1826. Rained hard all day of course, could not proceed. Six deer
killed; Tourocoahina lost his horse with his traps and other property. Sunday 15th. Altho' the rain
fell light today, such is state of the roads already, it is endangering the safety of our horses in
such steep hills as we have to pass: Consequently we deferred starting till tomorrow. Two deer
killed, two beavers caught Wemen employed in scraping skins.

 Grand Cote (1) October 20

McLEOD: Monday October 20, 1828. Hitherto we have enjoyed fine Weather, but a Change has
come on Suddenly and heavy Rain Continued through the day. Some Deer Killed gave a liberal
Share to the Indians accompanying us. Raised Camp past River La Biche at tis junction with
River Umpqua [Elkton], Encamped below Grand Cote and availed ourselves of the leaves of
trees for a Skreen against the Wet--Distance 15 Miles--Course Westerly

**********************
McLEOD: Monday October 16, 1826. Continued our progress along the same river, till we
reached the Umpqua, where finding pasture, we formed our Camp, distance sixteen miles over
very hilly country, which caused several individuals to stop in the rear, their horses being too
much exhausted to keep up with the van. The want of feeding for a number of horses justified a
division of our party. Now we have got to a convenient situation, we propose allowing our much
exhausted horses some days rest, before we venture to proceed further. The lost horse and the
owners property were recovered by a select party of men employed for that express purpose. Saw
some deer and wounded one. Light rain fell in the afternoon. Understanding that Indians resided
in this neighborhood, we anticipated a visit from them; but our hopes not realized.

McLEOD: Tuesday October 17, 1826. Light rain in the course of the night, yet we enjoyed a
fine day. In succession our men cast up, by the close of day, all hands reached the Camp. Many
horses narrowly escaped, several hurt by falling down the hills. On one occasion a saddle bag
was turned in which was a Canvass bag containg. Balls, part of which, was lost. An Umpqua
Indian came to us, and we availed ourselves of the moment to apprize his countrymen thro' him,
the object of our mission so as to avoid giving any groundless alarm. Two deer killed, traps set in
the little river; women employed dressing leather.

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 Wells Creek (1) October 21

McLEOD: Tuesday October 21, 1828. Heavy Rain Continued--proceeded about 12 termination
of the Open Country, within about 1 1/2 Mile of the Village pretty populous, on observing a
Couple of Graves newly erected excited our Curiosity and on enquiry of the Indians in Company,
they told us it was two Individuals of the Ds-alel Indians Killed in the fray by the Party defeated
by them--In the evening Sent a Message by the Chief, Starnoose, to the Village requesting
restitution of the Property in their possession belonging to Mr. Smith--

McLEOD: Wednesday October 22, 1828. Constant Rain till in the afternoon it Moderated--
Indians from the Village restored, 1 Rifle, 2 Pistol, 1 Musket, Some Books and other Paper,
Charts, 2 Vials Medicines, 139 Large Beavers, 24 Small--22 Large Land Otters, 20 Small, 1
Com. Cotton Shirt--1 Russian Ditto--1/2 Doz led Pencils--

McLEOD: Thursday October 23, 1828. Weather fine--The following Articles restored viz 421
Large Beavers--4 Small--1 Large land Otter 4 Sea Otters.--

McLEOD: Friday October 24, 1828. Endeavoured to get Canoes and Indians to Convey the [?]
we have on hand to our Camp, but could not get any Sizable Craft--

McLEOD: Saturday and Sunday, October 25 and 26, 1828. Occupied in getting the furs &c
lately recovered under way to our Camp under the Charge of ours and one of Mr. Smiths Men--

***************************
McLEOD: Saturday October 21, 1826.Fine weather. Proceeded about seven miles and camped at
the termination of the plainsl about a mile short of an Indian Village to which we sent two of our
Indians to obtain canoes, with which they returned at dusk. The little Chief with whom we
became acquainted in our late Trip, accompanied our Messengers and informed us, that he and
his followers had a few skins which they would bring to trade. Obtained some salmon trout from
our visitors of an excellent flavour. A canoe with two families from above past opposite to our
camp on a visit to their country people.

McLEOD: Sunday October 22, 1826. Fine weather. The two Iroquois that stopped behind,
having succeeded in obtaining canoes, joined our party this afternoon. The principal Chief with
some followers arrived, and seemed much gratified with some trifling articles we presented him
gratis. Having intimated my intentions of proceeding along the coast, to obtain a knowledge of
the resources of the country, as well as to establish an intercourse with the natives to the
Southward, the two chiefs prepared to follow to which I readily assented and gave directions to
make the necessary preparations for a speedy departure; reserving five of the less experienced
trappers to accompany me, the others to employ themselves to the best advantage hunting beaver
in the tributary streams flowing into the Umpqua. In pursuance of said plan, Canoes were the
first object and a sufficient number was hired to bring us all to the first Villages where we can
make up the deficiency. Engaged an Indian to accompany Mr. Douglas to the upper part of the
Country.

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 Indian Creek October 27

McLEOD: Monday October 27, 1828. With the remainder of our party forming a total of 16 we
proceeded down Stream in three Canoes, took a position opposite to the Second Village--these
people immediately restored what they possessed of Mr. Smiths Property to wit, 10 lb. Beads--1
Steel trap 1 Fowling piece, 1 Musket & a Cooking Kettle--

Umpqua Burials October 28
Pacific Coast (1) October 28

McLEOD: Tuesday October 28, 1828. Fine Weather--Proceeded to the Sea--Stoped at the
entrance of the North Branch, where Mr. Smiths Party were destroyed, and a Sad Spectacle of
Indian barbarity presented itself to our View, the Skeletons of eleven of those Miserabl Sufferers
lying bleaching in the Sun, after paying the last Service to their remains we continued forward
and made the Coast, no Indians in the Vicinity, contrary to their former Custom as several
Villages used to be about this place, the Natives are now more Collected than formerly--

Siltcoos River (1) October 29

McLEOD: Wednesday October 29, 1828. Fine Weather-Secured our Crafts and such Effects as
we could not carry with us-and proceeded along the t\v Coast to the Nor[th]--about Six
Miles off we came to Small River, where a Small Party of Indians resided possessing some of Mr.
Smiths things which they restored viz--I5 Beavers--2 Horses I Rifle & I Pistol--Continued our
progress about 6 Miles to another Small Stream also Indians residing on its banks a few Miles east
of our Camp

McLEOD: Thursday October 30, 1828. Heavy Rain all Night--Sent Messengers to River
Saoustla to have Canoes in readiness for us by the time we get there--recovered I Horse

Siuslaw River (1) October 31

McLEOD: Friday October 31, 1828. Sultry Weather--proceeded about 8 Miles to River
Saoustla--firing of Guns as a signal, agreed upon with the Indians we sent ahead, brought
them to us with Canoes--and we ascended to the first Fork on the left hand and Encamped,
to the Eastwards of our position Stood two Indian dwellings, sent some of our follower to
endeavour and obtain information.

***********************
McLEOD: Sunday July 16, 1826. Same weather as yesterday and we naturally concluded our
Party in the Rear could not move we continued our route about 11 miles and passed the
remainder of the day in the vicinity of an Indian Camp among the number that visited us I
observed one appearantly more intelligent than any of the rest, and very inquisitive about us
and the object of our Mission, which was communicated to him by my Indian Companions
afterwards he gave me to understand that the River we were going to possessed Beaver, and
that there were several Lakes in the neighbourhood inhabited by those Animals, mean time
pointing to a particular spot in sight of the Camp saying there also was Beaver which
proved correct for in the evening I visited the place alluded to and found many vistiges not

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however to occupy the attention of a Parry yet worthy of notice to an individual. Late in the
evening the Wind abated Considerably of its usual violence which gives hopes of our people
coming forward in course of to morrow morning the few Indians I have seen differ from those
we lately left for cleanliness and Dress far excel the others.

McLEOD: Tuesday July 18, 1826. The Weather fine and the night Calm which led me to expect
the arrival of our people till about 8 A.M. when the wind Sprung up and I no longer cherished
the hope of seeing them unless I went to them which I resolved on doing but did not go about
three miles when I perceived three Canoes under sail coming forward I accordingly returned to
the entrance of River Saestecau to meet them by that time the wind had increased so much that
two of the Canoes shipped a great deal of water in passing Bar however no accident happened
and by the sun set the whole Party collected La framboise Jeaudoine P. Charles having come by
Land preceded the Crafts since I parted with them the latter killed 3 Small Deer and to day a
small Buck Red Deer added four Small Deers to the number of which went to the party a meal
on arrival--We erected our Camp at the River Saestecau it is about three Hundred yards wide at
ebb tide and apparently very deep Current strong, several Indians collected about our Camp in
the evening, it is with difficulty that we can converse with them for none of the Tribe are
acquainted with the Chenook dialect one individual excepted who accompanied us from the
establishment and now proves the ablest Linguist with these people with whom he had been a
residenter for some years indeed since we left the Killamaux Village he has been employed as
such for the want of a Better substitute, we cannot therefore interrogate the Indians on many
subjects as we could wish because we are not only subject to misunderstand them but also liable
to be misunderstood and a wrong construction put upon our questions which might very likely
rise suspicion that would tend to frustrate our views, we are therefore more forbearing less
inquisitive than we otherwise would be were we better provided with Interpreters.

McLEOD: Saturday July 22, 1826. Cloudy weather light rain at intervals Jeaudoin and
Teuurwathinn came with two Beavers and an otter the Chief that we got skins from the day
before yesterday brought 18 Beavers and a sea Otter traded for a Calico Shirt a small tin dish the
remainder paid for in Jye quoise he gave hopes of another visit in a few days with more Furs
early in the morning sent our two men with some Indians for the Meat P. Charles and Jos: Louis
left in the woods the latter are to attend their Traps after sharing the Meat with the others who are
to bring it to the Camp — at dusk the men returned with part only of the Meat, the day being to
far spent to enable him to effect the purpose for which they went, in so doing they acted up to
Orders the Indians that accompanied them gave but little help and evinced a Strong inclination to
help themselves to some particular pieces of meat which gave to the men who would rather
purloin it to satisfy their own Gluttony than admit of sharing it with the natives could they do it
with impunity this circumstance soon buzzed about on arrival and caused a little talk but to little
purpose Our little Chief with some of his followers being about our Fire immediately ordered
four of his party to go and protect the Meat in the field and fetch it to the Camp on the morrow,
they instantly Started agreeable to the summons without even a hint from us directly or indirectly
— the result will prove how far we are Justifiable in trusting to them to effect the purpose of
their Mission — of the animals lately killed three was left at the disposal of the Hunters, the
remainder taken for our mess and put to the Credit of P. Charles who killed them — Jeaudoin
and his companion went in Course of the Afternoon some distance up the North Branch of this
River but finding the Navigation much impeded by fallen trees they returned at dusk conceiving
the Obstacles insurmountable without a certainty of a proportionable reward, the distance they

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went gave them no hopes of success as they did not notice any Visteges the natives do not seem
much inclined to favour views in that respect for none of them are so accommodating as to show
us where any is to be found with a reward too exorbitant to make it a president, the short time we
have to remain in this neighbourhood, is too limited to defray the expences we would incur by
employing Indians to direct the places inhabited by Beaver and at best we stand exposed to
deception, several instances of which have already occured, the payment having been previously
delivered is so much lost to the individuals who made the Bargain and Jusifys them avoiding the
like they have accordingly gone without any of the Natives, towards the source of the Main
Stream, where the best prospects of success exists if we can depend on the information of the
Leading men of the Tribes.

McLEOD: Sunday July 30, 1826. Very warm and Calm weather a party of four in two Canoes
proceeding up the South Branch of this River they have leave of absence for two days — little
Chief and Party arrived agreeable to his promise and regrets not having more time to himself so
that he might have gone beyond River Umpqua in quest of Skins, but rather than disappoint us he
returned from said River having got nine Beavers which we readily obtained from him, he again
repeated his intention of Collecting as many Skins as he can against our return and seemd
desirous it should be previous to the Rainy Season, in this particular all expressed themselves to
the Same effect — alledging they had accounts from the Indians to the Southward having a good
many skins, which circumstance gives the Indians about here prospects of bright Trade, and
several individuals are about to proceed forward for the purpose Our little Chief believe will be a
principal in that Case, as an encouragement at parting we presented him a Calico Shirt which he
received with evident marks of Satisfaction — in course of our conversation they suggested that
we should return by the Umpqua as the most advantageous Route for our horses by which means
we would be enabled to visit the source of different Rivers with less loss of time than by the
Coast and by the means of Canoes might without any difficulty navigate those Streams to their
Confluence with the Ocean for the purpose of Trade while Trappers might be advantageously
employed in the interior, the little Chief offered us his services to direct us the Route Southward
of the Umpqua and if we can rely on his assertions he would be very adequate as he affirms to
have a thorough knowledge of the Country which he represents as very practicable with the
Loaded horses Killed a Deer.

McLEOD: Monday July 31, 1826. Fine Weather late last night the four men sent up the South
Branch, returned not being able to proceed owing to the quantity of fallen Trees which obstructs
its navigation, at a late hour last night P. Charles and Jos: Louis arrived with the Skins of thirteen
Beavers of which the former Claims eleven they had not time to reach the source of the River
they went up, otherwise they expected better luck for the Indians they saw along their route all
agreed in the same story that about the heads of the Rivers the Beaver keep this forenoon we
moved to the sea shore to be at hand to avail ourselves of the first calm day to start on our return
appearances indicates a speedy departure P. Charles & Jos: Louis having still a few Traps set
went for them, in which the former Caught a Beaver in the evening they Joined the Main Body
killed a Deer and a Seal the Blubber of the latter afforded a most delicious meal to the Men.

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Main Channel November 1

McLEOD: Saturday November 1, 1828. Heavy Rain all day--proceeded up the Main
Channel and took our Station for the Night Opposite the first Chief Village--

McLEOD: Sunday November 2, 1828. Rainy Weather Still Continued.--the Indians of this
Village restored--4· Beavers--1 Musket Barrel--1 Blanket 1 Woolen Shirt--Some Beads--3
horses--they informed us of some friendly Indians having taken forward to the Kellymoux 12
horses and ten Beavers belonging to Mr. Smith, George came to us.

Siuslaw River (2) November 3

McLEOD: Monday November 3, 1828. Fine Weather-Engaged Indians to take the horses down
by the woods--hardly had they Started when information was brought to us that one of the
Animals was too much reduced to proceed, Sent a confidential person to see and finding the case
to be correct put an end to the Animals sufferings--the Indians engaged by us went forward
with two and an[other] got on the Way made up the Number to three--Encamped at our
Station of the 31 Ult.--traded a few Bv' Skins

McLEOD: Tuesday November 4, 1828. Fine Weather--the horses arrived late in the Evening-
-from the Indians about here we recovered 2 Kettles-- 3 Saddles--

Siltcoos River (2) November 5

McLEOD: Wednesday November 5, 1828. Cloudy Weather--Proceeded on our return, reached
our first Encampment leaving the Umpqua River and Stoped for the Night--

Pacific Coast (2) November 6

McLEOD: Thursday November 6, 1828. Heavy Wind & Rain--reached the Spot we left our
Canoes, found everything Safe also the furs & left in charge of the Natives going forward and
taken up on our return--

McLEOD: Friday November 7, 1828. Heavy Wind and Rain-which Stoped our progress

McLEOD: Saturday November 8, 1828. The Rain Continued as yesterday and the Wind with
increased violence, so that no craft could venture on the water with Safety--

Tenmile Creek November 9

McLEOD: Sunday November 9, 1828. Weather fine & Calm--Started by Water a few Miles
Southerly--left our Crafts and proceeded by the beach about 12 Miles, to Quick Sand River,
founda large Party of Indians Stationed here, not usually the Case, Nooze an Old Acquaintance,
came to us in fact he had no other alternative as his communication with his Village was cut
of[f]--as we came upon them un- observed--took a position within a Short distance of the
Village for the Night.--

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Pacific Coast (3) November 10

McLEOD: Monday November 10, 1828. Fine Weather--Our business with these Indians was
over at an early hour--the following Articles were recovered--viz--3 horses--2 Mules, 7
Steel Traps, 1 Copper Covered Kettle--1 Rifle--1 Rifle Barrel--Some Beads, Books,
journals & other Papers--traced back our Steps to the Entrance of the Umpqua, taking
forward the horses & Mules, but had to leave them on the South Shore, the Wind and State of
the Water not permitting to Swim them over the Channel safely--at Dark reach[ed]--our
Camp all Safe--

McLEOD: Tuesday November 11, 1828. Heavy Rain & high Wind-delayed in camp

Blacks Island November 12

McLEOD: Wednesday November 12, 1828. In course of the last Night the Storm subsided and
this Morning brought on fine Weather--a party of Men went for and brought the
horses & Mules we left day before yesterday--Meanwhile Mr. Smith with three Men
succeeded in finding the other six horses--and at Noon moved up the River, the horses
conveyed by Indians along the Margin of the River, Encamped on the Island at the Entrance
of the North branch, now called Defeat River, the Indians conveying the horses had to leave
them and come to us late--

McLEOD: Thursday November 13, 1828. Fine Weather--a Party took the Woods for
Game & P.[ierre] L'Etang one of the number, returned to acquaint us that they had seen two
horses on the South shore of the Main River, Mr. Smith with ample Means in hands,
instantly went forward directed to the Spot by L'Etang and found a Mule and a horse in
good Condition, both brought across and had to Swim above a Mile--others were employed
after the other horses and by Noon were all Collected on the East shore of the Channel, the
route the Indians purpose taking by--Mr. Smith proposed to accompany them conditionally
that I would grant him the Assistance of two Men which I readily assented to and appointed
[William] Johnston and [Amable] Quesnel to be of the Party with three Indians and
himself making Six in all--

Wells Creek (2) November 14

McLEOD: Friday November 14, 1828. Fine Weather-Agreeable to the Settlement of yesterday,
Mr. Smith and those appointed to accompany him Started early and Shaped their Course
Eastward along the Banks of the River--having taken in a Small Supply of Venison, we
proceeded up the River and occupied the Spot we did leaving the Verveau opposite to the
Village, the Articles we left here on our way down found Safe and in good Order--

McLEOD: Saturday November 15, 1828. Heavy Rain, that lasted all day--Kept Camp

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Grand Cote (2) November 16

McLEOD: Sunday November 16, 1828. Heavy Rain Continued all day--proceeded up the
River to our Camp above Verveau, stoped at the Village for our horse Agres left en
Passent, found all in high order.

McLEOD: Monday November 17, 1828. Rain falling in torrents all day--In the afternoon La
fram[boise] with Some Men went to the Village and received from Joe and his Brother, 72
Large Beavers and 16 Large Land Otters, unpaid for--

McLEOD: Tuesday November 18, 1828. In the Night the Rain ceased and with the rising Sun
came on fine Weather.--Mr. Smith & Suite joined us having been obliged to leave the horses
to be taken forward by the Indians, after they have recruited which their exhausted State loudly
call for--Johnston, in cutting brush wood to clear the track got a bad cut on the leg bone--
Quesnel hurt in the Knee badly from the Kick of a horse.--the Indians that accompanied Mr.
Smith behaved much to his Satisfaction and promise fairly to render the horses up Safely and
a remuneration is held out to them and Stipulated, the Articles they
are to receive--Our horses left here are dispersed but four can be found in this Vicinity.--the
others are about River la Biche--

Fort Umpqua (2) November 19

McLEOD: Wednesday November 19, 1828. Light Rain.--Started P. L.Etang & three
Men, En Canot to convey the furs &c to River la Biche--and by the Close of day, we reached
that place by land and had a sight of our horses Grasing in the hills

Fort Umpqua (3) November 20

McLEOD: Thursday November 20, 1828. Moved to the South Bank of the River la Biche
caught our horses, with the exception of two (Supposed stolen by Indians) got 2 Mules of Mr.
Smiths & 3 Beaver Skins--L Etang arrived and delivered his Cargo Safe--Light Rain--

Elk Creek (2) November 21

McLEOD: Friday November 21, 1828. Weather fine--rised Camp Course Easterly over the
Mountain and encamped at the Forks

Pass Creek (2) November 22

McLEOD: Saturday November 22, 1828. Rained all day with high Southerly Wind Continued our
progress and in good time reached our Camp, all Well--In My absence Mr. McKay recovered
Several Articles of Mr. Smiths Property which is included in the annexed Account Showing also
disbursements to Indians for Services, as in no Instance have we given property in return for any
part of Mr. Smiths things the Same document will point out the different Articles received and
made over to the Original Owner--

McLEOD: Sunday November 23, 1828. Same Weather as yesterday--Mr. Smith acquainted me

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with having resolved on proceeding to Fort Vancouver and to discharge such of his Men as
pleased to accept their dismissal, and pay them their balance in his hands their full Amount, it
seems to be his intention to give up his horses to the Company, I declined coming to terms and
deferred him to a future Period to settle that and other Matters with my Senior Officer--

McLEOD: Monday November 24, 1828. Stormy Weather not having abated, every thing is at a
Stand--

Return to Fort Vancouver November 25

McLEOD: Tuesday November 25, 1828. The Stormy Weather somewhat subsided--Smiths
Property put across the Channel below the Forks the object is to take advantage of the Weather
to proceed with all possible diligence to Fort Vancouver--La Framboise & two Men
accompanies them, and it is settled that they proceed together as a precautionary Measure--

McLEOD: Wednesday November 26, 1828. Heavy Rain--People on the alert after Strayed
horses--Indians seem intent on giving trouble as they take horse[s] away and leave them in the
field at the end of their journey--Measures must be adopted to check them in the future--

McLEOD: Thursday November 27, 1828. the stormy Weather Still prevails--and of serious in-
convenience to us, as many in the Camp feel severely in consequence of it--as it renders hunting
very precarious--

McLEOD: Friday November 28, 1828. The last night remarkable for a violent Storm but as the
day dawned the Weather became more Settled, and Mr. Smith & La Framboise moved forward--
and preparation made in the Camp to move from hence--

McLEOD: Saturday November 29, 1828. The late Rains has inundated the low Land and the
different Streams overflowed their banks--

McLEOD: Sunday November 30, 1828. Rainy Weather--

McLEOD: Monday December 1, 1828. Left Camp with 4 Men to Proceed to Fort Vancouver on
t h e Companys business--J.[ean] B[ap]t.[iste] Perreau[l]t & L.Etand, are of the Party
accompanying Me, both ailing and in need of Medical assistance about 2 P.M. we came up with
Mr. Smith and La Framboise on the North Bank of River La Biche--and Encamped together,
Owing to the rise of the water in the Numerous Streams and the inundated State of the low
land renders travelling extremely bad and very injurious to horses.--it is therefore expedient to
built temporary Canoes to descend the Wullamette River to Save the furs from further injury-

McLEOD: Tuesday December 2, 1828. Rain & Snow alternately during the day-- proceeded
forward and Past Mountain La Biche at its base on the North side and put up f or the Night--
from Stragling Indians, the Death of Cadonette was intimated to us--

McLEOD: Wednesday December 3, 1828. Westerly Wind & Rain, Continued our route in
Company and Encamped on the Banks of Yellow R iver, a Branch of the Wullamette, and we fell

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on its Source, it is but a small Stream in Summer but now, in appearance a large River, it heads
in Mountain la Biche--

McLEOD: Thursday December 4, 1828. Moved a Short distance to a More Convenient Spot on
the Same Stream, to answer our Views as there is timber of Sufficient Growth for the purpose
intended--Light Rain--

McLEOD: Friday December 5, 1828. Cloudy Weather and Occasional Rain--Men employed
about a Canoe--Laframboise

McLEOD: Saturday-Tuesday December 6-9, 1828. Visited Charlas and returned with two
Slaves that absconded from our Camp early in October but now willing to reassume their
former Situations--after they came back two More were brought in--all four deserted at the
Same time, the Eight Inst--a Canoe was fit to run before the Stream and the hands were put
After a Second of much larger dimensions--From Charlas Indians we received Skins in
payment of a Balance due the Company, among the Number, such as belonged to Mr. Smith
were Selected and given up to him amounting to 23 Large Beavers and 1 large land Otter--

McLEOD: Wednesday December 10, 1828. Fine Weather three Men & two Natives Started
for the Establishment by Water--Appointed [Alexis] Obichon, horse Guard with two Native
assistants at a stated Period to bring the horses to River L'ommitomba

REFERENCES

Dale, Harrison C. (ed.) 1918. The Ashley-Smith Explorations and the Discovery of a Central
Route to the Pacific 1822-1829. Arthur H. Clarke Co., Cleveland, Ohio: 352 pp.

Davies, Kenneth G. (ed.) 1961. Peter Skene Ogden's Snake Country Journal 1826-27. Publications of
the Hudson's Bay Record Society, London, England: 255 pp. w/2 maps.

Morgan, Dale L. 1964. Jedediah Smith and the Opening of the West. University of Nebraska
Press, Lincoln, Nebraska: 458 pp.

Sullivan, Maurice S. 1934. The Travels of Jedediah Smith, Fine Arts Press, Santa Ana,
California: 199 pp.

Zybach, Bob 1987. A. Black, Jedediah Smith, and the Location of the Hudson's Bay Company
Pack Trails in Northwest Oregon in 1828 (Second Draft and Outline). Preliminary report
prepared for Barry Lawler, Department of English, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon:
93 pp.